The Train To Crazy

Car Play Mat Garage Tutorial

I was so excited for the book Sewing for Boys: 24 Projects to Create a Handmade Wardrobe to be published. I patiently awaited it's release date and flipped through it as soon as I received it. The first project I chose from the book is the Car Play Mat. My kids love little cars and my son received a whole box of hot wheels for Christmas so this was perfect! 
I followed the pattern for the road but made some of my own adjustments. I wanted a play mat that would be used for more than two minutes so it needed a bit more appeal. 

To make your play mat like mine you'll want to cut your background fabric larger than the pattern (I used a heavy denim which I think is a great weight for this). Mine is about 36"x36" but you could certainly make it larger.

Then you can add a zip pouch to the background by cutting a piece of fabric about 18"x7". I used a 12 inch zipper.

Cut a slit in your garage fabric an inch shorter than the length of the zipper teeth.

Then cut a little "Y" at each end and iron it like this. You will now have an open rectangle in which to sew your zipper. I then laid the zipper down and used stitch witchery (double sided bonding) to attach it to the fabric before stitching.  Then flip over your garage fabric to the right side and, using a zipper foot just sew a rectangle around the zipper. Most machines can't sew through a zipper so if your fabric covers a bit of the zipper end make sure to avoid the teeth.

Easy, right? 

Now fold the edges under 1/4", iron, then fold 1/4" again and iron. Pin it in place on your play mat. I pinned the two long edges down, leaving the side edges unpinned. I pinned the sides 5" apart. Then sew the long sides down 1/8" from the edge.The short sides will be loose like the above picture. Make a fold on each end so it lays flat then sew.

Now customize your mat using wool felt. Why wool felt? It looks best, holds up well and because it is felt you don't need to worry about fraying. Most chain fabric stores carry some wool felt blends and those work great.

Those cars need some place to go so make your mat interesting! I added a tunnel but made it detatchable with velcro. 

And finally, because I made it from a heavy denim, I didn't back it. That way I can continue to customize it! I just finished the edges of the mat and it is ready to play with. 

Do your kids need a car mat?

Project Run & Play Week Two

***Have you been to Heart & Felt yet? Will you support my kids and their effort?***

Week two of Project Run & Play is here! It is Boy Week and I made "The Peddler". The outfit is completely inspired by Caps for Sale. Do you know that book? It is a favorite around here. I highly recommend it if you haven't read it.

I made these gray wool pants with a soft ribbed waistband, fly, front pockets, back flap pockets, pieced knees and ribbed ankle bands (perfect for growing boys!). 

The sweater is made from an adult sweater. I loved the stripe pattern and it is hard to find good sweater material. The burnt orange chevrons were sewn onto the sleeve to create a more modern, boy feel.

The knees are peiced. I rotated the pattern so they would stand out a bit and double topstitched just like the pockets and inseams.

And the caps. OH THE CAPS! Yes, I made them all. I used the Little Cap pattern. They are in the traditional colors of the book. I added appliqués to most of them for added appeal. There are nine in total. NINE. What was I thinking? Imagine getting a three year old to sit still enough to keep them stacked upright.

I happen to love the rolled ribbed cuff. This style would be especially great for quick growers and early walkers. 

So what do you think?? Go on over and VOTE!

DIY Leather Wallet Tutorial

Ever wanted to sew a wallet? Need a gift for a guy in your life? Sewing this leather wallet is easy! Check out my easy tutorial!

This simple leather wallet is great for the back pocket. Slim so it doesn't wear out pockets and easy to access money. You may omit the "money clip" elastic and store the money in the middle pocket if that suits your style.

Gather Supplies:

• leather (I bought an old leather purse at a thrift shop)
• clear vinyl
• leather sewing machine needles
• upholstry thread
• 1/2" wide elastic to match your leather

 Sewing with leather can be scary but you may find it isn't as you thought! A few tips:

1. Use the correct needle and thread
2. Go slow
3. Do not start right on the edge of your leather
4. Use a scrap piece of leather to check your tension

Cut leather:

• 3" x 4.5" (cut 2)
• 3" x 3.75" (cut 2)
• 3" x 3" (cut 1)

Cut vinyl:

• 3" x 3" (cut 1)

Cut a "window" out of one piece of 3' x 3.75" piece of leather. I use an exacto knife for precision.

Line the vinyl up behind the window and sew the top together. You may also use an appropriate glue if you'd rather to attach the vinyl to the leather.

Cut slits for the elastic. Line the elastic up near the top of the 3" x 3" piece of leather. Cut a slit about 1/4" inside the leather on each side. The slit should be just as wide as the leather.
Tuck the elastic into the leather as above.

Stack your wallet together. The window piece should be on top of one of the largest pieces. This will make one side of your wallet.

The elastic piece should go on top of the mid sized piece and then on top of the other largest piece. This will be the opposite side of the wallet.

Line your pieces up so the edges are straight. You can't use pins so I used binder clips. Sew the sides and bottom of the wallet. Do not sew the top! 

You're done! Now fill that wallet or give it as a gift! 

Have you worked with leather before? It's not as scary as you might think!

Oliver + S bucket hats with a chin strap

We are going on vacation. A real vacation. With sun. And sand. And most importantly, grandparents. See, a real vacation. For me. I'm giddy!

Due to the whole sun issue it was obvious we'd need a bucket hat from Oliver + S Little Things to Sew. Of course. And once I made one hat, others were requested. This is what I've got so far.

The hats are easy to make. Budget yourself 2-3 hours, depending on how comfortable you are with sewing and how late at night it is (i.e. how much you'll need your seam ripper). 

The hats are fully reversible. Though I added a chin strap to this one making it not so reversible. But with a 13 month old a chin strap is essential. Just sew it in when sewing the inside hat portion to the rest of the hat (final step). 

The pattern says the rows of stitching on the brim are optional but don't skip that part. It isn't that difficult if you go very slow and it adds so much strength to the hat. No floppiness here. Plus the cute factor raises by at least 5 points.

I omitted the hand stitching on the last step of the pattern and just machine sewed in on. You'll know what I mean when you have the pattern. It worked well and saved me a bit of time. I just pinned carefully and had no issues (oh except that one but then it was good)! Like I said, add a little time if you are working late at night.

Total stars for this pattern?

Have you made one yet?

E Dog gets a shirt

A little friend turned one recently. We've affectionately nicknamed him "E Dog". Little E Dog has a special place in our hearts and even though we don't live near him we like to think of him as my little guy's best friend. They haven't seen each other since they could move but that doesn't stop their friendship. So on little E Dog's birthday he got this shirt.

I loved it so much I almost couldn't bear to part with it. Seriously. I mean, how great is that E tag?? 

He got a pair of coordinating pants, of course.

I can't wait to see our little friend in his outfit. Hopefully soon. Hint, hint.

Feel free to make your own E Dog (C Dog? R Dog?) shirts. If you need the pattern I could certainly upload my drawing. Though I'm sure you can draw a few wonky circles on your own. Remember, imperfect is better.

How do you feel about this E Dog? (feel free to shower me with praise, I don't mind)

P.S. Sometimes I link here.

holiday sewing for boy: handmade doll

I try to make Christmas as handmade as possible around here. It's just more fun (for me) that way. I started the sewing last week with a doll from Wee Wonderfuls: 24 Dolls to Sew and Love

This is the Eddie Doll. 

I think I love him.

Even if I made his eyes a bit wonky and larger than they were supposed to be.

His hair is my favorite. 

Seriously. Uncanny, right? (smile)

That's fake fur hair. 

Eddie was easy to sew and he passed the test. The baby saw him and let out a huge squeal, ran to the doll and hugged it. I almost gave it to him then and there it was so precious. But I was strong and put it up for Christmas.

All in all I highly recommend the book. Full of great patterns and so far they are easy to make. I have 3 more planned.  

What do you think about handmade dolls? I was not a fan of them when I was a kid. I'm hopeful my kids love them. They each have a crocheted doll from my grandmother that they love. What say you?

Jack fell down and broke his crown...

There are so many costume ideas for a Jack. This one was just particularly fitting yesterday. Yes, that is a real black eye.

Pants: pattern from Handmade Beginnings blogged here and here

Suspenders: tutorial from Make It and Love It (super easy, highly recommend)

I tried to get a picture of all the kids in their costumes. Instead I have a ton of pictures of silly faces, hands in the face and babies running away... here's a few favorites.

I hope you had a fun Halloween if you celebrate!

seersucker pants for boys. really?

I happen to love seersucker. I know not everyone does. I especially love the stripes in seersucker. The problem with seersucker is that it is a thin fabric. Not quite robust enough for a new walker. This is easily fixable by lining the pants. Easy enough. I used my new 12-24 month pants pattern (I really should find a better name. Any ideas?) and they turned out adorable. 

Last time I mentioned this pants pattern you couldn't really see the details of the pants. I love the huge front pockets and I rarely make pants without a fake (or real) fly. It just adds a little something I think.

The contrast waist band is fun as well. In this case I matched it to the cuffs.

Nothing quite as adorable as little feet. Except maybe chubby hands.

The pants have room for a big diaper bum as well. I think the big tummy is just there to keep him from tipping backward. 

(No actual babies were harmed in the making of this post)

Is anyone looking for a pants pattern of this description? I'm totally willing to share it if there is any interest. It works well for boys or girls, obviously.

Adorable toy sewing patterns at DIY Fluffies

Handmade Dress Up: DIY Dino Tail Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Like what you see? Please PIN it or Stumble it! Thanks!

Are you ready to dress your little guy and gal as a dino? Check out this dinosaur tail tutorial from Jessica!

I'm Jessica from Running With Scissors where I share all my projects, from sewing, crafting, decor, painting thrift store makeovers, building furniture, and whatever new hobby comes along.
We love Halloween at my house. This year we actually decorated on Labor Day, at my 3 year old son's request.  So we get 2 full months of Halloween celebrating in...my husband tolerates our Halloween enthusiasm.
So I was so excited be able to share a quick easy costume tutorial for the boys! (Or girls, but we all know there is always a lack in boy things.)
But just as a quick disclaimer:
**Please be respectful of my designs and only use this tutorial for personal use.  Not intended for commercial sale or manufacture, even on a home based scale.
Make them for yourself, to give as gifts, but I'd appreciate not using it for profit.
Thanks.

 
DINO TAIL TUTORIAL

Today I'll be showing you how to make dinosaur (or dragon) tails!

This is a simple, fun, toy for kids.  I designed these tails with two straps that wrap around their waist with velcro in front making it easy for them to get them on and off themselves. 

These have been fun during these long winter months when we have to play inside.  My boy has "dino fights" with his dad where he wiggles his bum to use the tail as a sword...it's pretty cute.

SUPPLIES:

1/2 to 3/4 yard main fabric-- pretty much any fabric that's not stretchy (this yellow is polyester lining)

1/4 yard spike fabric

5" velcro

Polyfil batting (small bag)

CUT LIST:

MAIN FABRIC: 
tail: (cut 2): 22" x 11"
waist straps: (cut 4): 12" x 3"
circle: 7" in diameter
(*I cut a 7" square, fold it in fourths, then cut the curve from fold to fold)

CONTRASTING FABRIC:
spikes (cut 2): 22" x 3.5"

INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Trim tail strips
Taking your two strips 22" x 11", lay them face down.  On one end you'll measure 4.5" from each side.  The two inches left in the middle will be the tip of the tail.
On the other end, you'll measure 4" along the sides as a marker.  Connect these two markings to create a diagonal for the cone shape of the tail.  Cut off the triangular sides and throw them away.

2. Make Spike Strip

NOTE: To make the spikes easier, you could cut 1 strip out of felt or fleece and just cut out a spike strip leaving the raw edges that won't fray, rather than sewing your spikes with 2 strips of fabric.

Take your two spike strips and lay them right sides together.  Draw a row of triangles along the strip for the tail spikes.  Begin at one end and work your way to the other, making the spikes shorter and narrower.  I left about 1/2" between each spike.

Sew along your spike line.  When you get to the corners it helps to pivot by dropping your needle down into the fabric, lift your presser foot, move the fabric, then start sewing again.

Once your spikes are sewn, trim along your sewn line with 1/4" seam allowance along the whole strip.

Next, you'll need to trim the seam allowances to make it easier to turn the spikes right side out.

On the top of the spikes, you'll trim off the point, being careful not to snip through your seam.

In between each spike, you'll snip diagonally into each corner, once again don't snip through your sewing. 

Then you can turn the whole strip of spikes right side out, using a pen lid, knitting needle, etc. to push the tips of the points out.  Iron your spike strip nice and flat.

3. Sew Tail Body

First we'll sew the spikes to one piece of the tail.  Pin the largest spike to the tall side of your tail piece, lining up the raw edges.

Sew the spike strip to the tail piece with 1/4" seam allowance.  This is just basting, or tacking the pieces together.

Next, put your second tail piece so right sides are together, with the spike strip in the middle of the sandwich.

You'll sew down the spike strip again, this time with 1/2" seam allowance, making sure you sew past the troughs so there is a space between each spike when you turn it right side out.

Also, sew a slight curve as you go around the tip of the tail.

When you sew around to the other side, you'll need to stop your seam to leave a hole for turning the tail right side out later.  I leave about 4 to 5" unsewn underneath the spikes.  This way, it's on the bottom of the tail.

4. Sew Waist Straps

Take your 4 strips for the waist straps and put 2 right sides together.  This will give you two sets.

You'll sew down a long side, across the short, and up the other long side on each set.  Use 1/2" seam allowance.

Then you'll need to snip off the corners, being careful not to cut through your seam.

Next you'll turn each strap right side out, pushing out the corners with a pen lid or knitting needle.

I like to top-stitch the edges to make the straps lay nice and flat.  For this tail I used a zig-zag stitch with contrasting thread, but you could always just sew a straight stitch.

The last step to make your waist strap is to sew your velcro pieces to each end.   Center the velcro in the center of your strap and 1/2"  from the very end.

5. Complete Tail Construction

To close the large end of the taill, first mark the quarters by lining up the top (spike) seam with the bottom seam and pinning the folds on the sides.

Next you'll pin your waist straps inside the tail.  Pin the straps to the quarter side marks.

The important thing to remember is the velcro has to be pinned opposite so the straps will match up around the waist.  So put one waist strap with velcro down on the right side of the tail, then pin the other waist strap with the veclro facing up into the cavity of the tail.

Sew the straps to the sides of the tail 1/4" from edge. 

To finish off the tail, you'll pin your circle fabric (with the right side facing into the tail) around the large tail opening.  I fold my circle in quarters so I have a crease vertically and across to use as a guide to pin to the two seams (top and bottom) then line up with the waist straps on the sides.

Next you sew around your circle with 1/2" seam allowance.

6. Stuff and Finish

At this point your dino tail is sewn and you can turn it right side out through the hole you left on the bottom seam.  Your velcro waist straps should be oriented to match and stick together, and your spikes should stand up out of the top seam.

Next you'll stuff your tail with Poly-fil batting.  The density of your stuffing does determine how the tail will look.  I stuffed this yellow tail tighter than the blue or green tails, and I noticed it stood almost straight out from the boy's back, where leaving the stuffing a little looser makes a more droopy tail.  Whichever you prefer.

Once your tail is stuffed to your liking, pin the hole closed underneath.  I chose to just machine sew the seam shut, but it would probably look best to hand-sew the seam closed to allow it to lay flat. 

Then you're finished!  Now you can whip out a whole set with different colors!

Some ideas for variation:

-length: it's easy to make the tail longer or shorter, by cutting the tail and spike pieces longer than 22", but all the same length. 

-felt or fleece spikes: as mentioned ealier in tutorial, you could make the tail even easier by cutting felt or fleece spikes with one layer rather than sewing/ turning 2 pieces of fabric

-make it girly: you could make a more feminine tail for little girls by making the spikes rounded scallops rather than pointed spikes

-printed fabrics: I stuck with bright solids, but textured or printed fabrics would look awesome too.

Happy Halloween!  

If you are interested in more of my Halloween ideas, here are a few:

Dollar Store Creepy Tablescape          Fox/ Wolf/ Bear Costume Pattern          Kids Can Make Garland

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

Handmade Dress Up: DIY Potato Head Costume Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Like what you see? Support the guests by pinning their project or stumbling it!

 

Welcome Alison! Thank you for the Mr. & Mrs. Potato Head Costume Tutorial!

Hello friends!

 

 My name is Alison.  My blogging home is Oopsey Daisy.

I am thrilled to be here!  You see, I've been riding on the Train to Crazy for quite a while... Because I am the queen of oopsey daisies!  :) I like to sew, modpodge, craft,

decorate, photograph, hammer, paint, teach, and create.  Most of all, I love to

create things for the people I love. 

Fall is my favorite time of year, and I've been itching for Halloween for months!  In our house, we only watch one movie:  Toy Story.  So naturally, this year we are all dressing up as Toy Story characters!

 

And guess what?  

We're actually re-using the costumes we wore in February!  When my Little Man turned two, I threw him a Toy Story birthday party.  He dressed like Buzz Lightyear, and we asked all of our guests to dress like Toy Story characters, too!  

Mr. Oopsey Daisy and I dressed up like Mr. and Mrs. Potato Head!

 

 I sewed our costumes in 1 afternoon, and they were a piece of cake.  Are you ready to learn how to make your own?

Let's get started!

I did a few measurements on my husband including:

*Distance from shoulder to shoulder

* Waist circumference

*Distance from neck to knee

 

I purchased 2 1/3 yards of tan felt--that's 84 inches!  

Once I folded it in half lengthwise, I had my Mr. Potato Head!  He just needed a little trimming!  So I followed the measurements above to cut out an A-line shape. 

At the top of the fold, I found the center, and I cut out a 6-inch semi-circle to create the hole for the head. 

 

Next, I cut out Mr. Potato Head's eyes, nose, mustache, mouth, and ears from felt.  (I studied pictures of Mr. Potato Head while I did this.)  I pinned these on to the front of Mr. Potato Head.

 

Next, I sewed the facial features right on to the front. (Be sure to unfold the felt at this point.)

 

Then I pinned the right sides together.  But before sewing the sides together, I folded up the bottom edge by 1/2 inch.

 

I pressed the fold to create the casing for the elastic.  Here is a quick run-down...  

Once I had the elastic sewed in, I sewed up the sides.

I left the top 13 inches unsewn for the arm holes.  Just underneath the arm holes, I sewed in ears on each side.

In the back, I cut a 4-inch slit and sewed on Velcro to close it up.  This gives a little breathing room for slipping it on and off.

 

I think this Mr. Potato Head is pretty handsome!  :)

 

And here is my Mrs. Potato Head version!

So our family is all set for Halloween, and I can't wait!

 Andrea, this has been so much fun.  Thank you for having me!  I hope you'll come stop by Oopsey Daisy and say hello!

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

Handmade Dress Up: DIY Woodland Creature Masks Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Like what you see? Please PIN it or Stumble it! Thanks!

 Welcome Kin! Thank you for the Woodland Creature (bear, duck, rabbit, blue bird) Masks Tutorials!

Hi Train to Crazy Readers!  My name is Kim and I blog over at seven thirty three - - - a creative blog.  You'll find all sorts of crafty projects going on over there.  Currently I am working on my daughters 11th "Rock Star Glam" birthday party and will be sharing lots of party ideas and favors in the next coming weeks, so stop on by and sign up to follow so you don't miss out on the fun!.  

I would also love for you to check out some of my popular projects, such as my Sock Cupcakes Tutorial:

or my Weekly Menu Planner with Grocery List Free Printable:

Maybe you are planning a birthday party and need some great birthday ideas.  One of my recent parties was for my daughters 2nd birthday:

What 2 year old girl doesn't like Pinkalicious?!?  I have tons of free printables for this theme.

I also offer blog design for the Blogger platform, so if you are thinking of spiffying (that is a word you know... at least in my vocabulary!) up your blog, check out my portfolio!  I would love to work with you.

Today I am going to share with you how to make woodland creature masks!

Last year I hosted a  camping themed baby shower for my SIL and what camping trip isn't complete without an animal or two?  The little kids at the party filled these out perfectly!

This tutorial is showing you how to make a Bear Mask, but see the other pictures above for other creatures!  All were created with the same template with tweaks here and there.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

2 sheets of Felt (2 coordinating colors)

Elastic

Wonder Under or similar Fusible Web (optional)

First you will want to make a template on paper.  I just freehanded one, cut it out and measured it against my sons face to make sure it fit.  I also marked the eyes at the same time and cut those out.

Next you will want to iron your fusible web onto one of the pieces of felt (the interfacing will create a sturdier mask, but I only used it on two of my masks and didn't have a problem with the others)  Trace your mask template onto the paper of the fusible web, remove the paper backing and cut it out.  Now trace your mask again and cut out the second piece.

Iron the two pieces together. On the back of the mask (the part that will touch your childs face, trace the eyes - I did this BEFORE I ironed the pieces together and ended up having the marks transfer to my ironing board cover - OOPS!).

Cut out the inner ear pieces.  Sew them onto the mask with a zigzag stitch (you can do this BEFORE you iron the two pieces together if you don't want to see the stitch on the back of the mask).

Zigzap stitch the entire edge of your mask.  Cut out the eyes and zigzag stitch around them.  Measure the elastic against your childs head and sew it onto your mask (make sure it is nice and secure), and now you are done! 

FYI: I also attemped to add the elastic before sewing the edges, which is doable, but I didn't mind seeing the elastic on the back of the mask since it doesn't show when the child is wearing it.

I managed to break my bobbin holder half way through the masks so switched to handsewing... although it took longer it was still just as easy - so no machine required!

 For the duck and blue bird masks, I cut out a triangle for the beak and inserted it between the two pieces of the mask at the nose curve and just sewed around the edge of the mask as normal.

(Yes, that is me in the top right picture... Although I'm having second thoughts now that I see it up here!)

Happy Sewing!

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

DY(S)G: Guest Tutorial- How to Sew Ottobre Patterns

Please welcome Melanie from A Sewing Journal! Melanie has a wonderful blog and is always sewing beautiful things for her girls. She's here to take the mystery out of Ottobre patterns!

Hi there, I'm Melanie and I blog over at A Sewing Journal. I have three girls (this year all attending school) ranging in age from 4 years to 10. I like making clothes for them for fun, as a creative outlet. I love that they all still want mom to make them clothes, so I will enjoy it while I can. (Though, I have to admit, it's getting a little challenging to make clothes for my oldest.) 

I love Ottobre Design sewing patterns. They are stylish and offer a large variety of styles and sizes in each issue. Each issue includes clothing patterns for babies to tweens so there is a lot of information packed in there. While you could say that Ottobre Design doesn't have a lot of instructions, I would argue that all of the important and necessary information is there for you. I think the patterns are great for advanced beginners and up, but also for what I'd call adventurous beginners. If you're not afraid to look something up in a book or online when you come across something that you are unfamiliar with, well, go for it! Also, there are patterns in each magazines that are more difficult and some that are easier. Start by choosing a pattern that uses techniques you are familiar with, or maybe that introduce you to one new thing instead of multiple new techniques. Follow along as I show you how to decipher (it's pretty easy, really) an Ottobre Design sewing pattern. 

This is the information page. So they don't have to repeat everything 40 times, most basic information is here. There are no cutting layouts, so this is where you read up on that and more. As with most European patterns, seam allowances are not included, but hem allowances are. Read this page before you get started.

1. Measure your child's height in centimeters.
2. I like this part that reminds me how to determine the right size. I struggle with this all the time as my kids' measurements never seem to correlate nicely with the sizes listed on patterns and in books.
3. When choosing your pattern, look for the little diagrams on the page, usually in the corner or along the side of the photos. These tell you the sizes for those clothing pieces.
4. The diagram also gives you the pattern number.

1. This is the pattern instructions. That's it, it's all there. Short, clear and concise. Along the top, from left to right, you see a drawing of the clothing; drawings of the pattern pieces (see #2, too), instructions for the pattern pieces including how many to cut; which pattern sheet to use and the color of your numbers and lines (more on this in a bit); and your materials (listed in centimeters). There is a conversion chart in the magazine, but I prefer just to measure everything in centimeters when using Ottobre patterns otherwise I keep forgetting whether a number I wrote down was in inches or centimeters. Below that are the instructions for cutting and constructing.
2. This is not the pattern I'm using, but I wanted to show you how a more complicated pattern has more information. For example, the parts shaded in grey are to be interfaced.
3. Here are the instructions for the pattern pieces. We need pattern sheet C and our markings are in red.

1. Look, there's C, right on top! Take note that the reverse side of the sheets have different letters.
2. This is pattern sheet C unfolded. Don't freak out! There's a system here, really. (I think this is when Ottobre loses a few people). Don't feel lost, this makes sense. Can you imagine how much paper they would have to use for each issue if they didn't overlap the pattern pieces? This really makes a lot of sense.
3. Remember how we need pattern sheet C and the color red? When we look along the bottom of the pattern sheet we see a series of multicolored numbers. We need numbers 1, 2, 3 (the numbers of our pattern) in red. There are 1 and 2.
4. We trace our finger straight up from the numbers on the bottom and find the corresponding numbers and lines on the sheet. 

1. I like to use low tack tape to secure my pattern and tracing paper. I usually use Swedish tracing paper or Kwik Trace paper to trace patterns. I just use a pencil and ruler for the straight lines. 
2. With a bit of concentration the lines are easy to follow. I do not add seam allowances at this point as I feel with all those lines it's just too distracting for me. I add them on the fabric.
3. Don't forget to check the key to see what the different lines mean. Ottobre does not use dashed lines and dots to indicate different sizes as you sometimes see on American patterns. All sizes use a solid line and the dashed lines indicate something else, like fold lines or grainlines.
4. Be sure to label your pattern pieces with the piece number, size and pattern name and number.

1. The nice thing about Swedish tracing paper (and Kwik Trace paper) is you don't need pins or pattern weights. They make a friction (so to speak) with the fabric and don't move around on you.
2. I add a half inch seam allowance (oops, I guess I don't do everything in centimeters!), just because I think it's easier than 3/8ths. You are free to make your seam allowance whatever works best for you. I usually use tailors chalk, but again, there are many different types of marking devices. Use what works best for you. (And remember, seam allowances are not included, but hem allowances are. It's always best to remind yourself of this).
3. I like to cut my pieces out of the fabric with a rotary cutter. I'm just not very good with scissors.

This is as far as I'm taking you here. Putting together the garment just requires following the instructions, which are very clear. Let me know if you have any questions about Ottobre Design sewing patterns, I'd be happy to help!

If you'd like to see a review of the specific pattern I used, head over to my blog: A Sewing Journal. Here's a picture of the final product.

Find Ottobre Design Magazines here.

Thanks so much Melanie! I think we're all ready to dive into Ottobre now!

Don't forget to check out the Flickr group for Dress Your School Girl & Boy! 

Other DY(S)G posts

 

Dress Your (School) Boy Wrap Up

Before Dress Your (School) Girl begins I wanted to put all the Dress Your (School) Boy posts in one place and say a great big THANK YOU to all the wonderful women who took time out of their busy August to write a guest post. You blew me away!

 

Rock Star Guest Contributors:

Living With Punks, Kadiddlehopper, 21 Wale, Sew A Straight Line, The Boy Trifecta

Please subscribe to their blogs (or bookmark them) and send them some love!

DY(S)B: Boy Clothes Tutorial Roundup

Upcycled Boy Hat by I Am Momma, Boxer Brief by Sew a Straight Line

90 Minute Shirt by Made, Miniaturize a Men's Shirt by Lil Blue Boo

Boy Belt by The Mother Huddle, Ringer T by Crafterhours

Oversized Hoodie by Boy Trifecta, Cargo Pockets by 21 Wale

Buckle Waistband by Sew a Straight Line, Personalized Emblem by Living With Punks

Do you have a favorite boy tutorial?

DY(S)B: Guest Tutorial- Buckled Waistband

Please welcome Sabra from Sew a Straight Line! I'm so excited to have Sabra here sharing a tutorial. Take some time to check out her fantastic blog! Oh, and go congratulate her on her news!

Hi, I’m Sabra from Sew a Straight Line. 
When Andrea told me about Dress Your (School) Boy, I knew I wanted in.  I love to sew for my boys.  I have three sons, and have never once felt like I had a lack of things to make for them.  They are constantly inspiring me and suggesting new ideas to me.  One thing I love about sewing for boys is the challenge of coming up with details that aren’t frilly, but still add interest and uniqueness to a project.  I think the trick with details and boys’, and men’s clothing is that form has to meet function.  No matter how superfluous the function is, if it can be justified utilitarianly, you can slap it on there.  Just look at cargo pants! My boys are skinny. No, *really* skinny. Like don’t even register on the charts, nurses-checking-to-make-sure-their-scales-still-work skinny. Skinny. Adjustable waistbands aren’t just a convenience, they’re a necessity around here. But plain elastic waistbands are boring, full-on fastening flies are a chore to sew in, and belts are not so easy for busy boys to manipulate. My solution:

I’m going to show you how to take pretty much any basic pattern for simple pants and/or shorts and give them some masculine, functional flair.   You can even retro-fit existing pants with this update. As I said, you can add this to any pants or short pattern you want instead of a drawstring or elastic waistband.  You could even retro-fit a pair, if you unpick the waistband seems first.  So all you need to do the Adjustable Buckled Waistband is - a pair of bottoms with an unfinished waist - one-inch webbing (found in the notions of any fabric store, usually by elastic) - one-inch braided elastic - a center release buckle (found in notions of any fabric store)Begin by finishing the edge of the waistband.  Here I did a serged edge, then a 1/4 inch hem.  If you’re retro-fitting, the edges might already be finished for you.   
With the bottoms wrong-side-out, pin the waistband over about 1.5-2 inches all the way around.   
Flip the bottoms right-side-out.  Place the buckle in the center front and use as a guide to mark two parallel lines at either end of the buckle.   Use the webbing to mark the top and bottom of those lines you just made.   
So now you have two “I”-like markings at either side of the front center seam.   Unpin the waistband and pull the front center area out and away.   
Using those “I” markings as guides, sew in two buttonholes at either point.   Fold the waistband back over, repin, and sew all the way around.   Get your webbing.  Measure the bottom-wearer’s waist all the way around, then add about five to six inches.  Cut the webbing to those measurements.  Then cut that length of webbing in half. Cut about four to five inches of braided elastic.  Sew the webbing to the elastic, forming a fun little elastic bridge between the two webbing pieces.   I like to do a crazy-thick zig-zag stitch at every raw edge.  Thread the one open end of the webbing through the female side of the buckle.  Fold over, fold raw edge under, and do a sweet little box-stitch design to finish that side.  Thread the other end of the webbing through one buttonhole…  And come out the other.  Use a safety pin to aid in drawing through the waistband.  Now thread that open end of the webbing through the male side of the buckle. Fold raw edge under twice, to hide, and do another box-stitch design on that side. Buckle and… GO! Thanks to the adjustable webbing, pants stay on (and can fit the next kid down the line, if needed, too!).  The extra bit of elastic helps small hands to take on and off by themselves.  And the exposed buckle adds just a little bit more awesomeness to a basic pair of shorts keeping your kid looking good.Form and function, it’s a beautiful thing. Adjustable Buckle Waistbands get the thumbs-up from the resident males around here.  Now you go try them out! Thanks again, Andrea and Train to Crazy fans.  Feel free to stop by Sew a Straight Line for tons of  boy projects and other fun sewing stuff, too! 

Thanks so much Sabra! This is fantastic!

Don't forget to add your photos to the Dress Your (School) Boy & Girl Flickr group!

Other DY(S)B posts

DY(S)B: Sewing Patterns Books & Mags for Boys

The sewing book market seems to be exploding at the seams at the moment. Unfortunately, there are barely any patterns for boys in any of them! It's a shame! There are, however, a few out there that are worth mentioning.

 Sewing Clothes Kids Love is very popular right now. I've written about it several times, as have many other bloggers. I have yet to see anyone blog about the boy patterns. There are pants, shirts and a jacket that work for boys. The photos in the book look very "cool" and I think boys up to size 12 would enjoy them. Definitely worth checking out. Especially if you also have a girl to sew for. 

 Sewing for Boys: 24 Projects to Create a Handmade Wardrobe is coming out is September. This is written by the designers of Patterns by Figgy and, according to Amazon, will have patterns up to size 7. I know nothing about this book but it looks promising!

 Ottobre Design magazine is a great source for boy patterns. I have a few of these magazines and the clothes look fresh and well designed. Lots of knit shirts, jeans and pants. Search through the Ottobre site and buy just the back issue you like, or subscribe and receive 4 issues a year. There are 40 patterns for boys and girls in each issue but usually only a few go up to size 170 cm.

Do you know of any others?

Yes those are Amazon affiliate links above. Feel free to buy wherever you'd like!

DY(S)B: Guest Tutorial- Cargo Pocket

Please welcome Joy from 21 Wale! Joy knows all about sewing for school boys. Thanks for stopping by Joy!

 

Hi! My name is Joy. I sew and then blog about it. Most of my time is spent raising my 5 kids (2 boys and 3 girls). But sewing clothes is my creative outlet of choice. Somehow folding laundry and returning library books don't satisfy that need to make things. 

My blog catalogs my personal challenge to make all of my own clothes and most of my kids'. But really, my kids grow too fast for me to keep up with them!

My boys are 9 and 10 now. They've had mom-made clothes for several years and still express exuberant appreciation for them, but now they are much more involved in the process. They help pick fabric, patterns, and details. And now that they're older, their opinions are much more realistic than they used to be!

One of my favorite things about sewing for boys is the DETAILS. With girls' clothes, fabric is often the highlight. But with the more subdued fabrics we tend to use for older boys, the fun details are key.

And what detail is both interesting and useful? The pocket, of course! I thought I'd show you one method to assemble the classic cargo pocket.

Cargo Pocket Tutorial

Step 1: Make the pattern piece and cut out the fabric, adding seam allowances to each edge.

If you want to convert a patch pocket (in other words, a square) into a cargo pocket, just add extensions. My extensions are equal to my seam allowance of 5/8". In the photo you can see that I have added a seam allowance in addition to my pocket extensions.

It's easy to do a shaped or rounded pocket, too. Just cut a long strip (plus seam allowance on both long edges) for an extension and sew it around the edge of the pocket.

Step 2: Finish the edges.

This is optional. I suppose it's highly unlikely the pocket edges will fray to pieces sooner than the knees wear out. But you never know!

Step 3: Press under and stitch the pocket hem at the top.

Step 4: Press all the fold lines.

One set of pressed lines are outlines of the main pocket piece. The other lines will be at the seam allowance edges.

Step 5: Stitch the corners.

Pinch the corner, turn pocket inside out and stitch on the pre-pressed corner line, which is perpendicular to the edge. Before trimming, flip the pocket right side out to check. Repeat for the other corner.Step 6: Press the accordion folds of all 3 edges.

Push the pocket extensions in and press. The fold will be centered.

Step 7: Topstitch.

This is optional, depending on how you want your pocket to look. Do three separate lines of stitching, rather than one long one around the pocket. Otherwise, when you turn the corner, you'll catch the folds of fabric.

Step 8: Pin the pocket on the garment and stitch.

The stitching you're doing here is just like topstitching; I usually start at the top edge of one extension, and go around the pocket, slowing down to neaten the corners.

Probably the trickiest part of the cargo pocket is positioning the pocket extensions so that they are stitched directly under the pocket piece. It's easy for them to slide outward.

Step 9: Optional - Add a flap and velcro, snap, or button.

 Here's a small sampling of cargo pockets. There are so many options!

Thanks Joy! Great tutorial!

Don't forget to add your photos to the Dress Your (School) Boy & Girl Flickr group! We're all looking for inspiration!

Previous Dress Your (School) Boy posts:

DY(S)B: Guest Post- Oversized Hoodie Pattern

I'm excited to introduce our next guest blogger, Emily. You can find her over at The Boy Trifecta where it is all boy all the time. A great place for inspiration if you have boys! And don't forget to stop by and tell her HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!

Hi everyone! My name is Emily, and I blog about boy goodness over at The Boy Trifecta. I'm so excited to be sharing the Oversized Hoodie for Dress Your School Boy week!

I've found that, while there are some great boys patterns, many of the end at size 6 or 7, leaving my extremely tall 9-year-old out of the handmade fun. I also find that sewing for him can get pricey, because his garments require so much fabric! Many hoodie patterns are fully lined, designed to help the home sewist enclose raw fabric edges. This pattern is designed to conserve fabric by lining only the hood, while still being large enough for a big kid. I think this pattern is a comfortable size 12. Also, this is a QUICK project. I can get through this hoodie in less than 90 minutes. Let's get started! Materials: Oversized Hoodie Pattern Pieces 1.75 yards knit fabric .5 yards rib knit Separating zipper (30 inches) Twill tape  (optional) Sewing machine Coordinating thread Zipper foot. *Note: You will notice that I sewed this entire project, except the zipper, on my serger. I did this because my regular machine is in the shop, so I didn't have another option. You can ABSOLUTELY sew this on a regular machine. I would suggest either a stretch stitch or a zig zag stitch for all seams, except the zipper. If you use a knit, you can leave the edges raw.

1. Cut your pattern pieces. I recommend printing all the pages, taping the pages together, and then cutting out the pattern pieces. The hoodie body is one pattern piece for both front and back. I suggest using the pattern piece to cut the hoodie back first, then trim out the neckline from the pattern piece and use the same piece for the front body pieces. Front and back necklines are marked on the pattern piece.

2. Cut your fabric. You should have one back body (use body piece and cut on fold), two front body pieces (use body piece, cut both pieces at once by laying pattern on fabric, wrong sides together), four hood pieces (cut two simultaneously by placing on fabric wrong sides together), and two sleeve pieces (use sleeve pattern pieces, cut on fold). Cut three pieces of rib knit. Two of the should be 9 inches wide by 6 inches tall, and the other should be 32 inches wide by 8 inches tall. Place them in a messy pile on your kitchen table. (I guess that last part is optional). :)

3. Sew the shoulder seams, RST. 

4. Sew in the sleeves, RST. 

5. Sew up the side seams. Turn underneath the arm and sew the arm seam.

6. Place hood pieces RST, and sew around curved edge. Repeat with second set of hood pieces.   

7. Place one hood inside the other hood, RST. Stitch around the front edge of the hood. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch the front hood edge. 

8. Pin the hood to the neckline, RST. Start by matching the center hood seam with the center back of the neckline. Then match the front corners, and fit the rest of the hood to the neckline. Stitch in place.   

*Optional: Cover this seam at the back of the neck with twill tape. This is a common finishing method in unlined hoodies. 9. Grab your smaller piece of rib knit. Fold it in half, matching the short ends, and stitch up the side.   

10. Fold your knit tube into a cuff, with the seam on the inside. Place RST on the end of the sleeve. Match the seam on the cuff with the seam on the sleeve. Pin, and sew in place.   

11. Look! You made a cuff! Now go do it again on the other sleeve. 

12. Now grab your last piece of rib knit. Fold it in half, matching the long edges. Pin RST to the bottom of the hoodie. Stitch in place.

13. You're almost done! Now grab your zipper. Unfortunately, I don't have photos of this part because I had to sew in the zipper at the machine shop where my machine is being repaired, but don't be scared! It is SO EASY! Just separate the zipper. Lay it face down on the front of the hoodies. Either hand baste it in place, or pin well. Stich it down. The just turn the zip right side up, turning the edge of the zipper tape and raw fabric edge under. Topstitch in place. Repeat with the other side. And you're done!   

Make your kid model their new fall hoodie in 90 degree heat. Riley actually really loves this hoodie, despite the look on his face. Andrea, thanks for having me!

Wow Emily! This is so impressive! Thank you SO much for this generous pattern! I'm sure there will be many boys modeling this in days to come!

Don't forget to join the Flickr group and check out the other Dress Your (School) Boy posts!

DY(S)B: Sewing Patterns for Teen Boys (& Men too)

If sewing for grade school aged boys is tough then sewing for teen boys is nearly impossible. For the brave, here are some patterns that are appropriate.

From top right:

New Look 6321, Mccalls 5538, Kwik Sew 3506

Burda 7381, Burda 7734, Jalie 2918

Kwik Sew 3815, Burda 8187

Have you sewn for a teen boy? What did you sew?? Any pattern recommendations? Talk to us!

Previous Dress Your (School) Boy posts:

DY(S)B: Guest Post- Choosing Fabric

Please welcome Katie from Kadiddlehopper! Katie is a very talented seamstress who sews more than I can even fathom having the time to sew! She's quite amazing. Please stop by her blog and say hello! Thanks for being a guest here Katie!

We so often bemoan the lack of boy appropriate fabric. Everything out there is frilly, girly and pink. There are a few boy oriented prints available, but they so often are shoot 'em up cartoons, expensive blue trains and copyrighted by Disney or Pixar. And that is when they aren't intended for the under 2 year old set. How to sew for your school age boy??

But let us not despair. Prints are fun, but for the school age boy particularly, they won't make up the bulk of his wardrobe. What we need for our big boys is hard wearing, rough and tough fabrics that will stand up to whatever they can dish out, but won't make them stand out (in a bad way) on the playground. Here are a few of my favorites.

Denim/Twill 

I am lumping these together because they really are basically the same thing. Twill refers to the way that the fabric is woven. Look down at the jeans you are wearing and you'll see a diagonal texture in the weave.  Denim is a twill woven fabric, generally made of cotton, sometimes blended with polyester or lycra, but there are other twill fabrics out there that are great for boy clothes. Denim is great for jeans, of course but you don't have to stop there! It also makes fun elastic waist shorts and jackets.

Denim Jeans 

Lighter weight denims can be made into study shirts. Overall, denim and twills are a bottom weight fabric, making them perfect for pants, shorts, jackets and backpacks. They are easy to find even at your local big box fabric store, and generally inexpensive, making them a real wardrobe workhorse.

Printed Twill Backpack

Linen (and its cousins) 

Linen is a wonderful, breathable fabric that is a pleasure to sew. The down side of 100% linen is that it can be expensive and is a little bit on the delicate side. Fortunately, there are plenty of linen blends as well as "linen look" fabrics that are more hardy. These actually are even easier to find than their fancy cousins. Most big box fabric stores carry their own line of "linen look" fabrics.

Linen-cotton blend shirt

Lots of them are floral prints, but there are plenty of nice basic solid and stripes perfect for our boys. For my boy, I generally save the real linen for dress pants, but linen looks and blends are great for everyday. They are comfortable to wear and really can be used for almost anything in the wardrobe - shirts, pants, shorts and even lightweight jackets.

Polyester/Linen Look Pants

Knits

I know some of you are a little nervous about sewing with these, but for our tough guys, we don't want the hard to sew knits anyway. We're talking easy to sew cotton interlock and jersey. There are a lot of sources for excellent quality knits, but this is one place where the local JoAnn may not supply your need (although they do have a few reasonable quality basics and a nice selection of ribbing). 

cotton jersey tees

There are several online vendors who consistently deliver quality products, but some experimenting to find out what you like best may be required. My favorites are Chez Ami and the Fabric Fairy.

Thrift store tee shirts are also a fun source of jersey. I like finding a creative way to integrate screen printing into a new garment.

cotton jersey shorts refashioned from garage sale tee

Corduroy

Boys and corduroy just seem to go together. Perfect for fall pants, vests and jackets, it just seems like the quintessential "Boy" fabric. Generally the finer wales are easier to locate as yardage in local stores. I love the look of larger wale cord, especially for boys pants and can sometimes find the wider wales online. For reference the larger the number, the smaller the wale. Generally the corduroy at your local stores is 21 wale. I've seen as large as 8 wale online. Wouldn't that be great for some cool wide leg skater style pants?? My favorite source for nice quality corduroys is actually my hubby's closet. Repurposing old corduroy pants and jackets is a great way to find some fun and interesting fabrics.

corduroy pants refashioned from Dad's

Flannel 

Although great for jammies, flannel is also wonderful for warm layering long sleeve shirts and for lining pants in cold weather. It also makes cozy jacket lining and coat inner lining.

cotton flannel PJs

Fleece

This easy to sew knit fabric is perfect for comfortable unlined jackets and coats. 

It also makes fun hats, gloves and even comfortable pants. It's easy to find, although quality is extremely variable. The polyester fleece that you find at Walmart and the big fabric stores is much more likely to pill and is not as insulating as higher quality fleeces. Look for the Polartec brand, or check that the bolt specifies a "No Pill" fleece and you'll be much happier with your product.

Prints and Patterns

I bemoaned earlier the sad lack of prints for boys, but I actually find that for the school age chap, simpler is better.

cotton shirtings, gingham and a bit of seersucker

Stripes, solids, checks and an occasional houndstooth will clothe your boy well. I would also mention that I have had much better luck getting my son to actually wear what I make when I let him in on the decision making process. Yep, take the boy shopping with you. Let him flip through your pattern magazines. Surf your favorite online fabric stores with him. You might be surprised at how much fun you'll both have!

Thanks Katie! Great information!

Don't forget to add your photos to the Flickr group for Dress Your (School) Boy & Girl!

Check out the previous Dress Your (School) Boy tutorials!

DY(S)B: Sewing Patterns for Boys

Sewing for boys is hard. We all know it. Here are a few patterns that might make the cut.

From top right:

Burda 9524, Burda 9526, Kitschy Coo Reversible Hoodie

Burda 9641, Figgy's Tee for Two, Burda 9527

Burda 9525, Jalie 2918, Kwik Sew 3773

Many people also rave about Ottobre patterns for boys. Their quarterly pattern magazines contain 40 patterns for boys and girls. Have you sewn Ottobre patterns? 

Do you have any patterns for boys to recommend? Leave them in the comments! 

Stay tuned for my pattern round up for older boys and teens!

Other Dress Your (School) Boy posts:

 

DY(S)B: Guest Tutorial- Personalized Emblem Polo

Please welcome Susan from Living With Punks! I love Susan's blog and I'm sure you do too. I'm honored to have Susan kick off the Dress Your (School) Boy week!

 

I am super excited to be over here at Andrea’s today!  Oh, ya see, I’m so excited I forgot to introduce myself!  I’m Susan from Living with Punks.  I love to create. I love to take pictures.  And, I love to write…therefore, I blog!  When Andrea asked me to be a part of her Dress your (School) Boy Week, I immediately said YES!  My twin boys are almost 9 and it is getting harder and harder to sew for them…and have them actually like it!  So, I have to get creative and really keep my eye out for what’s ‘in’.  I know!  That means thumbing through the latest cool children’s clothing catalogs and DIY’ing what I can…

 I’ve seen these emblem polo’s everywhere and thought why not personalize them for the punks… and guess what?  They love them!  Don’t let the faces in the pictures fool ya…those are just their serious model faces they put on as soon as the lens goes to my eye. ;)  I’m serious…I think they missed their calling… Let’s get started

Plain polo shirt

Thrifted T-Shirt or scraps

fusible interfacing

Coordinating thread   Begin by cutting a sufficient amount of fabric for each element, one circle and one letter.  Fuse the wrong side of the fabric to the raised side of the interfacing Use a household item (I used my pin cushion) to draw a nice circle. For the letter I just freehanded on the backside of the interfaced fabric.  Just remember to draw in reverse! Clip about a 1/4” cut around the entire circle every 1/2” or so.  This will give the emblem a rugged look once washed Arrange your letter on the emblem and pin in place.   Stitch in a contrasting thread.  Don’t worry about being perfect…the more rugged, the better, right? Place your emblem on the left side of the shirt and stitch in place.  I loaded my bobbin and needle thread in different colors and played around with the tension so you could see both colors when sewn.  Sew this first circle pretty straight and don’t let the stitches go over any of the small cuts previously made on the circle Your second pass around the circle, you can get all wonky to make it deliberately crooked.

Now my boys have are that much more prepared for starting school!  Yay!  I think I’ll do some with numbers now!

Stop on by Living with Punks anytime!  I’d love to have ya  :)

Thanks for having me over to play Andrea! 

No, thank YOU Susan! This is so fun!

Sewing for your school boy or girl? Join the Flickr group for Dress Your (School) Boy & Girl! Add your photos so we can all be inspired! Stop by tomorrow for more Dress Your (School) Boy!

Other DY(S)B posts:

Football Softie Tutorial

I'm sure you've all been stuck at one point or another wondering what to make for someone's new little baby. You want to make something that will be useful, cute, and get used. Many handmade items don't always fit into those categories. But here is something that does. The football softie tutorial!

The perfect way to use up some scraps of fabric and ribbon. I used flannel scraps here but quilting fabric or even minky would work great. I think the taggies on the football make the toy super cute and a bit more interesting for babies. Of course, you could omit those and it would still be just as useful! I've also added jingle bells inside the football but feel free to omit those as well.

Gather your supplies:

• Print the football template, or draw your own
• Cut 4 pieces for the football (I like to use freezer paper to get the job done quickly)
• Cut 1 ribbon 6.5" long (if you use a different size football cut ribbon accordingly)
• Cut 8 ribbons 3" long
• Jingle bells (3-5)
• Cut a small scrap about 2" x 4"
• Stuffing

1. Pin ribbons onto one piece of the football 

Turn ends under on the center ribbon. Loop the other ribbons and tuck them under the center ribbon. Sew center ribbon along edges.

2. Sew the football pieces together, right sides together. Use a 1/4" seam allowance. Stop sewing 1/4" from the ends.

3. Sew the next pieces of the football together (right sides). Edges should join as so:

(notice how the points meet in the middle and don't overlap?)

4. Leave a 2-3" opening when joining the final pieces. This will allow you to turn the football right side out and stuff.

5. Turn right side out

6. Use the small scrap of fabric to encase the jingle bells. It doesn't have to be pretty it just needs to hold them together.

7. Stuff the football, placing the jingle bell pouch in the middle of the stuffing.

8. Hand sew the opening closed.

And finally, present your special taggie football to a little special guy or gal.

Baby In The Hood

I made this jacket a year ago and posted some cute photos of the matching booties as well. Which reminds me... where are those booties?? So now my guy wears the jacket and I can give a much better pattern review!

Pattern: Baby in the Hood from Anna Maria Horner's book Handmade Beginnings: 24 Sewing Projects to Welcome Baby. I've also posted about her patterns here, here, and here.

Size: This jacket is size 6-9 months. I believe the sizing runs a bit large, as I mentioned about the pants. However, the length isn't especially large, mostly just the sleeves and the width. Plan to roll the sleeves (which is cute anyway). On a whole, the sizing isn't too bad. 

I had mentioned that I wanted to make 2 or 3 more of these in different sizes. I might, if I have the time. It is actually the jacket I use for him all the time and I remember liking how easily it came together when I sewed it. 

Things I'd change: Get rid of those toggles. Cute, in theory, but the jacket always comes unbuttoned. Regular button holes, please. I might attempt a zipper, actually. 

Has anyone put a zipper in one of these? I'd love to hear how it went!

Overall pattern rating?

More pants

We're enjoying more of our "laundry miracle" pants.

Pattern: Handmade Beginnings: 24 Sewing Projects to Welcome Baby

Fabric: main fabric is unknown from a discount fabric store. Anyone recognize this pattern? The upper octagonal print is from JoAnn Fabric.

Merry Christmas from me

Do you know how hard it is to photograph 4 kids when nobody can hold the baby and you want their clothes in the pic?

Yes, every item in the picture is me made, save the little red skirt in the middle.

On left:

Shirt & skirt designed by me. There is a lot of detail missing in the photo above. Shirt is a cotton interlock, skirt a cotton shirting. If you like this you can vote for it for Project Toddler Runway!

I'll get a better shirt detail soon...

Middle:

Shirt pattern from this Japanese pattern book. The fabric is linen. 

Right:

Shirt is, of course, the Somerset Hoodie. Check back tomorrow for a SUPER ONE DAY sale from Mama Stellato. Fabric is a cotton interlock. The fit is fabulous, highly recommend the pattern. Very quick and no serger required.

The skirt is corduroy with inset plaid pleats. Adorable. Pattern is mine. You can see it a little better here.

Baby:

I'm sure you recognize a 90 Minute shirt. It was the first time I've made one and, while I constructed it differently than the tutorial suggests, it was easy and took much less than 90 minutes. I like the contrast stitching so I did a little of my own on the bottom.

The pants are made from a cotton plaid shirting. My favorite part is the faux fly. He doesn't NEED it but it sure does add a little something to a pair of pants. There are pockets and cute cord knee patches as well. The pattern is mine.

So THERE! I completed Christmas outfits with weeks to spare! Now I'll let them take them off because long sleeves in nearly 90 degrees is uncomfortable.

Urban Hoodie

A couple months ago Heidi & Finn sent me the Urban Unisex Hoodie pattern to review. Well, I finally had the chance to whip one up and I love it! 

This is size 6 mo. and was made from a pair of maternity sweats I never wanted to wear again in my life. It is fully lined with some green knit fabric. You might recognize it from this popular dress. The pattern is for knit fabric and has instructions for how to sew this with just a regular sewing machine. No need for a serger. I believe this took me about 2 hours to sew. Maybe a bit more or less. I'm thrilled with how it turned out!

I do have a confession: I haven't sewn on the buttons yet. I'm seriously considering sewing the buttons on the outside and doing velcro underneath instead of button holes. It is for a 6 month old, after all. Quicker is better.

Confession two: I didn't change a thing about the pattern. Not one thing. That's unusual for me, really. So, Now I'm trying to decide if I should go rouge and change up the buttons. What do you think?

UPDATE: Now that I've put this on my baby I believe the pattern runs a bit small so make a size up for your little guy or girl! The sleves are long enough (a bit too long?) but they are snug. Some people complain the body is too short as well (compared to the arms, definitely).

Little Cap Sew Along Day 2

I intended (or hoped) to make another cap last night because some of my pictures are sorely lacking for the sew along. I didn't do it though. I've declared this vacation week around here. We'll be swimming and reading and doing a bit of math and spelling but that's about it! 

This is the lovely (non) recipient of the hat I didn't make:

She is my adorable, hilarious niece. You know how some kids are just exploding with personality, even at a very young age? That's her! Here she is modeling a cap that clearly doesn't fit. That's okay because it only stayed on for about 3 seconds. Just long enough for me to snap one picture. 

She is modeling the altered size 0-6 month hat. Stop by tomorrow to find out how to alter your pattern for that size.

You might notice the hat matches the booties I showed off earlier.

 

You'll also want to stop by to see how to make sure your hat looks like this on top:  

Ready to finish up your cap? Day 2 instructions are HERE. 

I'm linking these finishes to a few other blogs this week. Go check them out. There are also more pictures of finished hats in the Day 2 instructions!

Little Cap Sew Along Day 1

The Little Cap Sew Along is finally here! This is such an easy project, it hardly needs a sew along, but it's fun to make things with others, isn't it? I'll also be showing you some pattern variations including size variations. So, are you ready to join in?

If you haven't bought your pattern yet, go to the Leila & Ben etsy shop and buy the pattern. Mention The Train To Crazy to get $2 refund until the end of September. It is a PDF pattern so it will be emailed to you and you can join us right away!

Now, head on over to Day 1 Instructions!

The little cap that started it all

I've made 5 Little Caps to date. This is the one that started it all.

I made it just like the example on the pattern. I love the little argyle.

She calls it "Maggie's hat" and she's been sad to be separated from it for the last month.

Our boxes are being delivered to our new house next week so I figure sometime in the next month or two we'll find it. And once again she'll have her Maggie's hat.

Want to make a Little Cap? Join the Sew Along coming up! Find the details by clicking the picture below!

Linking here 

School Clothes {pants & tank}

I recently bought a copy of Sewing Clothes Kids Love. When I opened the book I was overwhelmed by great color and design. I'm pretty sure the title is spot on as well.

These are my first projects.

The Dortje pants & the Brooklyn tank. 

Clearly the pants are long. I washed them and they shrunk up just enough that now they fit perfectly.

I followed the instructions pretty closely and the fit works well. I did eliminate the side seem allowances on the pants to accommodate my thin girl. The only thing I would do differently next time is make the tank longer. I added the ruffle on it because it was short. As a size 110-116 I assumed it would fit my 106 cm little girl. Guess not. The tank is great, just needs a bit of length. I'll definitely be making more. I really love the pants. They are a bit labor intensive when you add so many details but I think it is worth it in the end.

The book really encourages you to embellish and use ruffles, gathers, ribbons and appliques. These pants don't look much like any of the examples in the book, which is part of the beauty of the book. So many possibilities in each garment. 

I give the book two thumbs up. I especially love that the patterns go up to a size 11/12 and includes some unisex patterns. So, if you love sewing kid's clothes, grab yourself a copy of Sewing Clothes Kids Love.

Linked  

Sewing for boy {pants}

I'm still loving Handmade Beginnings: 24 Sewing Projects to Welcome Baby. After sewing the hoodie and booties I moved on to the pants.

The, oh so cute, pants. They are reversible and have a cute little panel on the bum.

I fell in love with these fabrics. They are bold and cute and I'm hoping they look good on a little boy. 

And these little ones are corduroy on one side and cotton plaid on the other. Oh, and they just might go with the booties and the hoodie.

The pants are the size 6-9 months. They are definitely intended to have the cuff rolled up. When it is unrolled, the pants fit my 19 month old. And she's not tiny so if you are planning to make pants just be aware that they are baggy and have the potential to grow with your child. That's a bonus in my book.   

Linking HERE

Sewing for baby

I ordered Anna Maria Horner's new book, Handmade Beginnings: 24 Sewing Projects to Welcome Baby a couple weeks ago and finally got around to sewing some of the projects from it this weekend. I have to say, I'm loving the book so far. There are a couple projects for maternity wear or nursing wear and the rest are baby clothes, toys and quilts. All of them equally eye catching.

I made the Cute-as-a-Button Booties

Definitely true to their name. I used a brown corduroy and a cotton plaid on the outside and a soft cotton knit on the inside. Would I make these again? Probably not. They are really cute, but I'm not a fan of how the inner sole was attached to the shoe. It is supposed to be fused in using a light fusible interfacing but it just didn't work well for me because of all the layers (probably just an issue for me since others have had success). I ended up sewing what I could in but since it is the last step I couldn't sew under the toes. If I could figure out a better way to insert the sole I'd definitely do them again.I 

I also made the Baby-in-the-Hood jacket.

There is no baby in this hoodie so I have no idea how well it fits. But it is so cute I'm sure I'll be making at least one more, if not two or three of these in different sizes. I used a cotton plaid and a solid for the outer fabrics and a soft cotton knit for the lining. The lining of a baby's jacket should be soft, should it not? I love the toggles and buttons as a visual effect. For practicality I'll probably omit the toggles next time and opt for snaps.

Can't you just see a chubby little baby face in there?

He won't be old enough to sit in this chair when this jacket fits but it just looked so cute hanging there I couldn't resist. This jacket is size 6-9 months. I'll have to borrow a baby to check how accurate the sizing is.

And, now he's ready to head out for an adventure. Crawling, of course.    

Linking here