The Train To Crazy

Tutorial: Travel Toothbrush Holder

Browsing Pinterest last week I saw something that was so simple it was brilliant. A travel toothbrush holder made from a wash cloth. It was great, but not exactly what I need. My problem is electric toothbrushes are hard to pack. They are big and bulky.

Most commercial options aren't adequate. I hate those plastic cases that go around the bristles. They get nasty and they are hard to clean. That's how this "On The Go" toothbrush holder was born. 

Want to know how to pack 4 toothbrushes? Here's the full travel toothbrush holder tutorial. In all of it's simple glory. Now you can sew a toothbrush case for yourself in about 10 minutes!

Supplies:

• 2 wash cloths
• ribbon

Sew the ribbon about 2/3 of the way up the wash cloth. Center it so there is enough ribbon hanging off each end to tie a bow.

Turn that wash cloth over so the ribbon is facing down. 

Fold the second wash cloth so it is the length of your toothbrush and place it on top of the first wash cloth. Pin.

Sew 3 verticle lines to make seperate compartments for each toothbrush.

Fold the 1st wash cloth down over the 2nd. Pin the sides. Sew along both sides and bottom. 

Fill with toothbrushes.

There you have it! Your very own, throw in the washing machine, toothbrush holder.

How do you pack your toothbrushes?

Tutorial: how to turn a narrow fabric tube

Some things seem simple. I have spent more time in my life doing simple things, like turning a tube of fabric right side out, than I care to remember. Because what is little and simple turns out to be neither. It can be infuriating if you're just working with your hands. I broke down one day and bought a turning tool at the fabric store. It was only a few dollars so I figured why not try it. OH MY goodness it makes life so much easier! Am I the only one who was so clueless for so long? Do you want to know how to turn a tube of fabric right side out?

Step one. Get your rectangle of fabric. Mind was cut haphazardly by hand. Yours might look better. Mine also has some stabilizer ironed on because I used it for my messenger bag strap.

fold that rectangle in half the long way and sew the long way and one end closed. Grab your turning tube and stick (they are a package deal). This Turn It All on Amazon is basically what I have. 

Slide the tube all the way into the fabric. Way down to the end you sewed shut.

Now hold the fabric so the tube doesn't move and start pushing that stick into the tube, through the closed end of the fabric. This is where you hope you stitched well.

Keep going. Start to push the fabric down over the tube and stick as you push the stick.

Keep pushing that fabric and you'll end up with the tube on the outside and the stick inside. Push until the fabric is completely turned.

Now wasn't that easy? Much better than wasting 30 minutes of your time sanity. Iron and top stitch and you'll have a great strap for something.

How do you turn fabric? Do you have any tricks or tips?

How to make a duckling costume

A couple years ago I made duck costumes for my daughters. They still wear them for dressing up. There are three different costumes and I used (or was inspired by) different tutorials for each. If you have a little one you really can't go wrong with making a duckling costume. 

How to make a duckling costume:

It was so much fun making the duckling costumes. The little one is made from a cotton knit. The top is smocked as well as the very bottom. The ruffled bum used as much fabric as the entire dress. It was worth it. So cute. I simply ruffled a strip of fabric 2" wide and then sewed it on in a circular pattern, sewing along the center where I had ruffled the fabric.

The shoulder straps are shirred as well. All edges have a rolled hem on the serger but you could definitely leave them alone since this is a no fray fabric.

The costume on my oldest is made from a costume fake suede. I used this tutorial for the romper. I added 4 layers of ruffles on the bum. She wore a tutu under the romper to add volume. I really like how it has leg holes. Makes it more of a duckling costume and not a dress.

The costume on my middle daughter is what the girls call the "fancy duckling." The dress fabric is a costume satin. The ruffles are chiffon. The dress is loosely inspired by this tutorial. There are yards and yards of ruffles that circle the dress. The bottom has elastic to give it shape. She is also wearing a tutu under the dress to give it volume.

Now go make yourself a duckling costume! 

Don't forget to get 10% off your entire purchase at Raspberry Creek Fabrics!

Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Karate Kid Headband (hachimaki) Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Like what you see? Please PIN it or Stumble it! Thanks!

Hello all!  I’m Christie from A Lemon Squeezy Home.  I’m excited to be here today as part of Andrea’s series.  What a wonderful idea to get a ton of fun dress-up items for the kiddos!  My kids love our dress-up box, and it looks like I might have to add to it after seeing everyone’s tutorials. Today we’re going to keep it really simple.  I’m going to show you how to make Daniel Larusso’s headband from The Karate Kid.  I think the correct term is a hachimaki. 

picture source

You can purchase these for about $10.00 (shipped) online, but I figured they would be so easy to make, and you probably even have everything you need in your house already! Let’s get started! You’ll need: -printed flower design, download HERE (I used my silhouette software to trace the image HERE).  You can resize the flower to make it bigger or smaller according to how large or small a headband you are making.  This size is good for about 4-9 year olds.  Ish.  :) -black fabric or black acrylic paint -paint brush -8” x about 44” piece white fabric (I used cotton) -pencil with an eraser in nearly new condition (so the sides aren’t worn down) Fold the white piece of fabric in half lengthwise and crease the middle so you know where it is. Center the flower underneath the fabric and trace with a pencil (or something that might erase better—I had a hard time getting my pencil marks off where the paint didn’t cover it).  Or you can trace it onto freezer paper and cut out the shape. Place a sheet of paper underneath and start painting.  You can either free-hand it and like I did, or you could cut this shape out of freezer paper, iron the freezer paper on, and paint.  That would be easier and probably faster, but I thought it would be faster the way I did it.   It probably wasn’t.  Next, start marking with a pencil (starting about 1/2” away from the flower) every 1”, then another line 1” away from that.  My dots aren’t as close together as the real version, so you can make your dots closer if you’d like. Dip your eraser in the black paint and start making dots over the pencil markings in the above picture (make sure there is paper beneath your fabric again).  I did 8 columns of dots on either side of the flower.  Once the paint has dried, fold the short ends under 1/4”, then another 1/4” and sew.  The ends are now finished.  Almost done! Now all you do is fold in half so the long ends match, and sew about a 1/4” seam down the whole long edge. Iron the seam flat as picture below. Turn right side out and you are done!  Since my 8 year old received the 1984 version of Karate Kid for his birthday, he’s been really into Karate.  And was happy to oblige for many, many pictures. “Mom!  Take a picture of me doing this move!” Thanks for having me today, Andrea! 

Thank YOU Christie! Thanks for showing us how to make a Karate Kid headband! 

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Word Girl Costume Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Like what you see? Please PIN it or Stumble it! Thanks!

Hi all you awesome Train to Crazy readers!

My name is Dacia & I blog with my sister over at Creative Mommas.
I love to create and I share all things I create on our blog.  I receive so much creative inspiration from the blogosphere, so why not share the love!  On our blog we have tutorials, recipes, parties, sewing, crafting, home decor, photography & so much more.  We also have an Etsy shop where we share some of our sewing talents.  Come browse our blog and see if something inspires you.

Today I'd like to share my Word Girl costume tutorial.
It's pretty simple and you, too, can whip these out in an afternoon!

I bought long sleeve red shirts & pants at Walmart for like $3 or $4 a piece.

The first thing I did was find the word girl design on the Internet and I printed it out in the size I wanted.

Then I ironed on HeatnBond to the back of my yellow fabric.

Next, I traced my design on the back of the fabric, (on the Heatnbond paper) & cut it out.

After, I took the paper off the back of the design...

and ironed it on the shirt with the shiny side down.

For an extra hold, I stitched all along the outside and inside of my design. And there you have it, one Word Girl shirt!
But of course I couldn't stop there, Word Girl has a cape too. For the cape, I cut out a large rectangular piece of fabric. (I just held it up to my girls and made sure I liked the length.) I hemmed the sides and bottom of the cape to finish the edges. Then I folded down the top, making sure there was enough room for my elastic.
Next I stitched along the top and bottom of my fold. For the elastic, I measured it around my girls' necks, cut it and threaded it through the top of the cape. Once I got the elastic threaded far enough through, I made sure to zig zag stitch the elastic at one end. After threading it all the way through, I zig zag stitched the other end to keep the elastic secured. The last thing I added to the cape were snaps, two to be exact. And that's it, all done! Two word girl outfits in one afternoon & two very happy girls!

Here are a few other things from our blog:

My family is BIG into Halloween & we usually do themed costumes and all dress the part.

Last Halloween Harry Potter was the theme & I made robes so the kids could be Harry Potter characters.

And here is a Halloween wreath I made for my door last year.

But wait, there's more than just Halloween on our blog.

My sister and I stenciled this wall together.

And this is my awesome Craigslist find that I refinished.

Here's a teacher appreciation gift idea that I shared on our blog.

And here's a party I planned this year for my daughter.

Thanks so much to Andrea for allowing me to visit her awesome blog & share my tutorial!

Come visit me over at Creative Mommas.  I love connecting with creative people!

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Mary Poppins Dress Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! You'll find a new tutorial for sewing, glueing or crafting a dress up costume every day. Please subscribe so you don't miss the other 27 bloggers and their wonderful tutorials! Like what you see? Support these guests by pinning their projects or stumbling the posts!

Welcome Jess! Thanks for teaching us how to sew this darling Mary Poppins Jolly Holiday dress!

Hey, all you crafty costumers! I'm Jess, from Craftiness is not Optional (insert picture, hehe)...

...and I love sewing costumes for my kiddos! This year my oldest daughter had a Mary Poppins birthday party, so of course she needed a Jolly Holiday dress to wear!

She looks pretty darn cute in it, I've gotta say.

Of course, the circle skirt is very spin-worthy!

I love the trims-on the sleeves, and cummerbund.

With bows on the skirt. :)

So, I used this tutorial for the basic dress construction. 

I used sheer fabric for the sleeves and lengthened them. (and added trim) 

Left off the waistband, but made a cummerbund. (instructions below)

I made a simple "bib" by sewing two rectangular pieces of my sheer material right sides together, on 3 sides. Turned right side out, and sewed closed the bottom, turning raw edges in. Then I gathered it down the middle, sewed it to the dress, and then tacked it down at each corner with a few stitches, and added the ribbon bow.

Now for a few pics and notes about how I made the cummerbund.

First I cut out two pieces shaped like this, that came to a point in the middle, and were wide enough to fit around her waist. I ended up cutting some off in the end, but that's easy to do later.

On one piece, I laid out 5 pieces of ric rac like so, and then sewed them down, sewing straight down the middle.

Then I took some pre-made piping, and pinned it along each edge, with the piping towards the middle.

I clipped the piping at the bottom there a little bit, to fit better around the little point.

Then, using a zipper foot, I sewed AS CLOSE as I could to the piping. Like, really close.

Then I pinned the other red piece right sides together, and sewed (with my zipper foot still) close to the piping again. It wasn't hard to tell where it was, I just manipulated the fabric a bit so it would stand out better. Leave the ends open.

No pics of the rest, but I turned it right side out, checked my piping to see if I needed to restitch anything, and then pressed it. Then I figured out where I needed to place my velcro to fit the Sadester. I cut it where I needed, serged the ends, turned them under and stitched over the ends, then sewed on my velcro. All done!

Hope you like it! Happy Trick or Treating!

Here are a couple more dress up projects I've done!

Thanks for having me, Andrea!

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

Leather Bound Buttonhole Tutorial

Hey everyone and fans of the Train To Crazy!  It is Cheryl from Paradiso Designs with a cool technique that I developed to use in place of those dreaded gromments that look great, but normally do not last long, and end up coming apart.  So I came up with the Paradiso Designs Strap Slot, which is kind of like a bound buttonhole as you can see from above!

The red pleather piece started out as a 1.75" x around 3" piece.  I used measurements to make the strap slot fit the strap exactly and not be too loose.   I would recommend using a 2" wide or wider measurement for this, as it was not the easiest to sew down.  But I love the look of the slot with the kind of bend in it!!  I think letting it be not perfect looks great and if it was too perfect, then you would see every little mistake in stitching!!  You just want to make sure that what you start out with looks proportional, because what size you cut the slot facing is what size it will be.

The beauty of the using pleather/vinyl is that you can just sew that down as it, and it will look like leather, as it wrinkles like leather!!  You can see in this picture that I have the size that I want of the slot facing piece.  This slot is ½" wide.  And the slot is made in the center of the side seam of the bag!  I found the center and drew a chalk line through it, then I made lines where I was going to stitch my slot box.  I made sure that all my stitch lines were the same distance away from the edge on all 4 sides.  I put the right side to the right side of the lining, measuring from the top on both sides of the facing to make sure they were equal amounts from the top…then we know it will be placed straight.  I used tape to hold the facing in place, and about an inch below that I pinned through the lining to the seam allowance of the exterior bag to hold everything in place.  And then I stitched it, if you look closely you will see the indentations, and at the bottom of the picture you can see the center chalk line that is barely visable is centered with the bag side seam!  Use a stitcc length that is longer if the what you are sewing thorough is really thick, this was stitched with a 3.5 stitch length.  Make very sharp corners, and do not forget to backstitch.  I use only a seam ripper to cut pleather, especially in this situation.  I cut here through to the fleece,  And on the lining side too.  After I reach the fabrics I LOVE to use the Fiskers nips that have the long narrow blades.  They are great for being very precise in tiny places…and this is a tiny place!  Make sure to cut right up to each corner and not cut the stitching.  If you do cut the stitching on accident…just resew the rectangle just a bit bigger…maybe go 1/8 of an inch bigger around the 1^st stitch lines, and then recut.  Now…bring in the big gun scissors to really clean up the stitch box, and the point is to lessen the bulk, so that it will be easy to turn the pleather out! 
Then I tucked the pleather facing through the stitch box from the back and pulled it gently out right side to the exterior of the bag.  If you look closely I used pins to hold down the facing to the bag, to anchor it as I sewed it in place.  I stitched with a 1/16^" of an inch…use 1/8", it will look better I think.  Breathe, and just take your time sewing the facing into place.  You can see that I just let the pleather pleat in some places because it just did, due to the nature of the thickness of the bag.  And I feel that it adds to the charm, but it does not take away from the look of the bag, and when you look at the last picture……….. 

  Does this look homemade….?  I think not!!

Thank-you to all the fans here for checking my techniques out, be sure to check out my website in a few weeks (November 8) to see 7 new patterns added to the Paradiso Designs Pattern Line-up!!

Thanks Andrea for letting me hang on the Train to Crazy!!  Have a wonderful Sunday!!

Check out Cheryl's other tutorials for sewing pleather purse handles and pleather binding tutorial 

Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Silk Butterfly Wings Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! You'll find a new tutorial for sewing, glueing or crafting a dress up costume every day. Please subscribe so you don't miss the other 27 bloggers and their wonderful tutorials! Like what you see? Support these guests by pinning their projects or stumbling the posts!

Welcome Carrie! Thanks for sharing your silk butterfly wings tutorial!

Hello all! I'm Carrie from This Mama Makes Stuff, where I blog about refashioning & running, raising comapssionate kids & crocheting, thrifting and triathlons. I am so happy to be part of Andrea's Handmade Dress-up Series (and I love that I got to meet her in person last week)! Dressing up is a year-round activity in our house and these wings have been a favorite for years. Unlike wire wings that can get bent up pretty easily, these ones can be stuffed into the dress up box and still look great for years of dress-up fun. Kids also love the way the fabric feels when you "fly".

Inspired by silk wings I saw in a catalog, these butterfly wings are a favorite item in the dress-up box. These specific wings will fit most kids ages 2-8. Here's how to make them: Gather your materials: 44" square silk scarf (Dharma Trading Co), 36" piece of elastic for straps, two 5 1/2" pieces of elastic for wristbands, 10 1/2" x 3 1/2" piece of fabric. Dye the scarf.

RIT dye, though not the best, is definitely the most readily available. You can check out Dharmatrading.com for more options.

For two-toned wing, gather scarf in the middle.

Fold in half and dip in color 1.

Then dip outside edge in color 2

Rinse and dry scarf as instructed on dye instructions. Once dry, iron crease down center of scarf.

Sew gathering stitch down the crease line you just made- edge to edge

Add 2 more rows of gathering stitches on each side of original stitch.

 

If you have a fine machine needle, place stitch lines 3/4" away from center. If you don't, place stitches 1/2" away from center (this is what I did).

Gather all three stitches.

Take piece of fabric and fold over raw edges to form "body"

Finished body should equal 10" x 1 1/2". You can also use a wide piece of heavy ribbon for the body, folding under each raw end.

Pin body to gathered center of wings.

Edge stitch body in place around the entire piece of fabric (or ribbon).

Sew 36" piece of strap elastic together to form loop.

Pin flattened loop to top, center of wings.

Stitch straps in place following same stitch lines as "body"

Add wristloops to top corners of wings.

To do this, lay wristloop on right side, matching edges, rolling over top of wing. Pin in place.

Stitch wristloop in place on each top corner.

Pull loop to outside and see the nice clean finish!

Now you're ready to fly away!

You might also like these posts from This Mama Makes Stuff: DIY tips for Dyeing Fabric, DIY Sinister Ceramics DIY Zombie Barbie Garden

 

 

 

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

Handmade Dress Up: DIY Scrappy Boa Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! You'll find a new tutorial for sewing, glueing or crafting a dress up costume every day. Please subscribe so you don't miss the other 27 bloggers and their wonderful tutorials! Like what you see? Support these guests by pinning their projects or stumbling the posts!

Welcome Jessica! Thanks for the wonderful boa tutorial! 

Hi everyone. I am Jessica from Me Sew Crazy, and I am super excited to be on board with Andrea at the Train to Crazy for the Handmade Dress Up Series! With two little girls in the house, our 'dress up trunk' sees lots of action. I never know what I am going to see come out of that room - a princess, chef, movie star, explorer, detective...and the costume changes are endless! Sometimes I will even get a princess that loves to cook, with a sick pet who needs a vet. Lol. It just warms my heart to see the imagination on my two girls! That is why I am super excited to be here with today's post...

No matter what costume my girls decide to dress up in, there is ALWAYS a boa involved! Doctor with a boa? Check. Explorer with a boa? Check. You name the occupation, any my girls will prove to you that a boa is part of the required uniform!

This is a NO-SEW project, and has the potential to use up TONS of your fabric scraps! Let's Get Started: Materials: Approximately 1 yard total of fabric Instructions:

1. Cut 1 piece of fabric 1"W x 60"L (or whatever length you want your boa to be), and cut a whole bunch of 1"W x 8 - 10"L fabric scraps (mine total about 1 yard of fabric). 2. On your long strip of fabric, tie off one of the ends.

Now we are going to start adding the fabric scraps to the long strip.

3. Taking your fabric scraps, start tying them onto the long strip - with a single knot in the middle. 4. Then push the scrap down, and keep pushing the scraps down as you tie them on, until they meet the knot at the end and all bunch up. Continue doing this until you reach the desired length of your boa. Once you have added all of your fabric scraps, tie off the other end of the fabric strip. And you are finished!

Now go have fun with it!!!

Thank you so much again for having me here today Andrea! And to all you Train to Crazy readers, I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and will stop by my blog sometime at Me Sew Crazy and say hello!

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

Handmade Dress Up: DIY Peacock Tutu Tutorial

Do you want to learn how to make an adorable peacock tutu for a little girl? This easy tutorial is great for all confidence levels. With a little tulle and felt you'll have a little peacock in no time! Thanks for this great DIY tutorial from Shwin & Shwin! Please check out all the other handmade costume tutorials!

You may also be interested in:

15 Pajama Tutorials

20 easy DIY gifts for women

Simple Skirt Tutorial

I was so excited when Andrea asked me to play along in this super fun series! You see I tried my hand for the first time making my kids costumes last year. However I am notorious for last second costume finding/making. I finished my kids costumes in the car on the way to our halloween party. (awesome) So this invite was a prefect way to force me to make them early. The only hard part was figuring out what in the world I should make...

 Image sources: one two three

When I was struggling to come up with an idea for my daughter, my son suggested she be an animal. (he is so helpful) So I thought of my favorite animal and of course it has to be the beautiful, elegant and vibrant peacock.  I wanted something whimsical and fun that would still resemble the peacock. So for part of her costume I made a Peacock tutu. 

With fun bright colors and a scattering of "peacock feathers" going down the back. The tutu is nice and full in the back and bare in the front to mimic the look of a real peacock. So would you like to make one yourself?

I started by making a tutu. Which I am pretty sure everyone and their best friend has done a tutorial on how to make one, so we will skip that part. I used THIS tutorial for mine. I only put the tulle in the back of the band leaving the front empty. I did brown and tan on the sides and then it faded to blue and green in the middle. I did this to closely mimic the peacock feathers. 

Then I made some feathers for the back. 

Buy a Royal Blue Tulle Spool , Teal Tulle Spool, Lime Green Tulle Spool, or Brown Tulle Spool. Don't forget your assorted pack of felt.

 I started by cutting out the base of the feather in brown felt and then I cut out the shapes for the "eye" looking part of the feather. I used lime green, teal and royal blue felt for the pieces.

 Then I started by sewing the green piece to the brown piece by sewing around the edge, and then sewing lines outward for detail on the feather.

Then I just used my glue gun to glue the two blue pieces on to the feather. 

Then I tacked the feathers scattered on a ribbon. 

I added the ribbons to the back of the skirt. 

Then you are done with the peacock tutu!

It's ready for your little one to flounce around in all day for dress up fun, or for the perfect little halloween ensemble. 

Where she is sure to look like a darling little peacock.

Come stop by our blog anytime to see the rest of the peacock costume, my son's "Hawkeye the archer" costume or many other projects! 

We would love to have you!

Or, consider buying Natural Peacock Tail Feathers ! How fun would that be?

Look at these other cute tutorials from Shauna at Shwin & Shwin:

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

 

                                 

Handmade Dress Up: DIY Superhero Cuffs Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! You'll find a new tutorial for sewing, glueing or crafting a dress up costume every day. Whether you're an avid DIY'er or just looking for something fun to try please subscribe so you don't miss the other 27 bloggers and their wonderful tutorials! Like what you see? Support these guests by pinning their projects or stumbling the posts!

Do you have a superhero in your house? Kate is here to show you how to make superhero wrist bands! Thanks for the tutorial!

Hi everyone! I'm Kate from see kate sew! 

I blog about sewing, crafts, fashion and more. I really love ruffles! I share new tutorials each week on my blog. Some of my favorites are this vintage suitcase chair, the scrap map and a ruffle shower curtain.  I have a little boy who is just starting to get into the age where it will be fun to dress him up, so this series is great!

 Today I'm sharing an easy tutorial for superhero cuffs! Because a superhero is not complete without them!

Materials:

3 colors of felt

velcro

printable pieces

First print out your template and cut out two cuff pieces and a star for each cuff. The template is sized for a small toddler, so if you have a bigger kiddo, just make a larger shape. 

Stack the two cuff pieces and topstitch them together all the way around at 1/8-1/4"

Sew the star in the middle.

Your velcro should be as long as the short edge. Sew one piece of the velcro to the front of you cuff and the other piece to the back of the opposite side.

Velcro it together and you've got one little cuff!

Now repeat for the other side and go save the world!

You can even switch up the stars for something else like hearts or lightning bolts!

Thanks for having me here Andrea! And thanks for reading my little tutorial! Come over to see kate sew and check out some of my other tutorials! 

(click photo to see post)

 

 

 

 

 

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Handmade Dress Up: DIY Princess Costume Set Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! You'll find a new tutorial for sewing, glueing or crafting a dress up costume every day. Please subscribe so you don't miss the other 27 bloggers and their wonderful tutorials! Like what you see? Support these guests by pinning their projects or stumbling the posts!

Do you have a little princess in your life? Bev is here to show us how to sew the adorable princess costume set she made her lucky neice. Thanks for the princess tutorial!

It's been a while since my kiddos were into dress up clothes - but when they were little it was pretty much a daily activity! I made a bunch of fun things for my daughter - and picked up some great things on Halloween clearance (you can get great things for 90% off after Halloween!!). I have two sweet nieces that I love to sew for - so I thought it would be fun to make an outfit similar to one I made my daughter when she was little. It's easy to put on and fun to wear! It's a little Princess set - with skirt, capelet, and headband - all with fun pink sequins to dress it up. (If you're going to be a princess - you need some bling right??) My nieces live in Arizona - so you'll have to just imagine how cute this will look on. ;) This is a super simple set - it comes together really quickly!! You can make it with any fabric - but I love using the inexpensive satin that is in the fabric store now for Halloween. To make the whole set, you'll need a little less than a yard of satin, a roll of sequined elastic, a roll of sequin trim, and coordinating ribbon. (All came from Joann's) To make the capelet, cut out 2 large half circles. This is easiest to draw out by tying a string to a pencil, then holding the string in the top center and drawing with the pencil in a half circle. The radius of mine is 4" for the top, 12" for the bottom, you can easily adjust this for your little ones. I'm making this for a 3 year old. Sew the pieces right sides together, leaving a small opening for turning. Clip the corners and curves before turning right side out. (I must apologize for the background on this tutorial - I thought this gray polkadot would be a cute contrast to all the white satin, but after scrolling through all these, I am slightly dizzy. Nice.) Turn the capelet right side out and press. Topstitch around all the sides and curves. Trim all but the top inside curve with the sequin trim. I used a heavy duty needle and had no problem sewing right down the center of the trim. Trim the inside half circle with your pretty ribbon, leaving the ends long enough for tying. For the skirt, I cut a long piece of satin 15" x 30". Place the two short sides right sides together and sew. Make a small hem along the bottom by turning under twice and sewing. Zigzag around the top of the skirt to cut down on the fraying. Cut a length of sequined elastic the same length as your little one's waist measurement. Sew the two ends together. Pin the elastic to the skirt, stretching it to the satin as you go. Sew on the elastic, lining it up with the top of the skirt. Stretch the elastic as you go, when you release it, it will gather up the skirt. Sew the ribbon from the capelet along the hem of the skirt for a little more trim. Super easy right?? I love that it's easy for them to pull on or take off themselves. You can easily whip up a matching headband too - just measure out with the sequined elastic how much you'd need for an elastic headband. Sew the ends together and add a sweet satin rosette! That's it!! A super cute, easy outfit that is perfect for a princess, a bride, or even a fancy nurse in a pinch. ;) I hope you like it! Andrea thank you Soooo much for having me! I am loving this series - so many cute ideas!!

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

Handmade Dress Up: DIY No Sew Iridescent Fairy Wings Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! You'll find a new tutorial for sewing, glueing or crafting a dress up costume every day. Please subscribe so you don't miss the other 27 bloggers and their wonderful tutorials! Like what you see? Support these guests by pinning their projects or stumbling the posts!

Want to know how to make no sew fairy wings? Look no further! Kalleen is here to share her No Sew Iridescent Wings Tutorial! 

Hi there, I'm Kalleen from At Second Street. I am so excited to be part of this series. Dress-up's are a big part of our home. I loved dressing up as a child and find so much joy in seeing my kids share that love. Even my nine year old boy still uses his imagination to be someone else. 

I hope you like this tutorial for iridescent fairy wings. 

I know you can buy wings for pretty cheap these days, but I'm picky and I wanted something more realistic. Something more Tinker-bell like and not so much butterfly. This is what I came up with for our costumes last year. 

In darker light they appear clear and in the sunlight they sparkle. 

They're dramatic and fancy, yet sturdy and cheap to make. 

That you need to make them:

- Solid Galvanized Wire

-pliers or similar tool

- electrical tape or duck tape

- glue gun and glue sticks

- transparent gift wrap

-optional glitter paint

-paint brush

-ribbon 

-elastic band ( you can use 1/2" or 1") length varies

I bought my wire at Walmart. I got the roll for $3.50. I was able to make three sets of wings and have a ton left over. You could use a wire hanger, but for this price why mess with that. 

making the wing frames:

Start by cutting four pieces of wire. Two pieces of the same length for your top wings and two of the same length for the bottom wings. The longer the wire is the bigger the wing it will make. 

Next cross over the ends of the wire and twist them.  You may need pliers to help. 

After twisting the ends, form the wire into a shape you like. I would have a clear image of the shape you want in front of you before you start. I googled fairy wings and found a few shapes I really liked.  

after shaping the wire wrap the twisted ends together with tape. 

Then wrap the top and the bottom pieces together with tape. It should feel sturdy when you are done.

Time to cover them in gift wrap. I bought mine at the dollar store and had enough in one roll to cover all three sets of wings. 

Cut a piece of the wrap just larger than one wing. 

The wrap is attached to the wing with hot glue. Run a small bead of hot glue all the way around one side of the wing. Then lay it on the cut piece of wrap. Trim the edges and repeat on the other side of the same wing. Then repeat the same process on all four wings. 

When I was finished I painted on some silver glitter paint. I tried to use strokes that simulated fair wings. You can skip the paint, I like the clear iridescent look as well. 

Next, I wrapped the center in ribbon.

I measured a strip of elastic to wrap around the shoulders and glued it to the center. 

Then I reinforced with another wrapping of ribbon and glue. 

 

That's it, they are ready to wear. 

I only had to buy the wire wrap and paint.  I paid $6 for three sets of wings.

Feel free to come over a check out a few more costume ideas. 

 

 

 

 

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Vinyl or pleather trim tutorial

Hello all you lovely sewists that follow Andrea and The Train to Crazy!!

Cheryl here, of Paradiso Designs.  I  was able to meet you all last week when Andrea let me share with you how to stitch up some pleather/vinyl straps that look like leather for handbags!!  You also got a peak at one of my new patterns "The Urbanista HoBo".  The Cupcake appliqué will also be a new pattern too!

Here is the same bag done up in pleather/vinyl with another new appliqué pattern called" Urban Graffiti" that will be out at the end of October.
This week I am going to show you how to put pleather/vinyl (p/v) as a trim on the upper edge of the HoBo.  It really gives such a nice touch to your "homemade" designer handbag.

When I design my handbags, it combines 2 bags always in one.  One bag is the exterior bag, and the other bag is the lining.  One way that I finish my bags is to "wrap" a trim around the top of the bag enclosing all raw edges, nice and tidy.

I start with a 2" wide piece of p/v.  Next, tack the 2 bags together at the top edge of the bags (exterior and lining), so that they will not slip apart while being sewn, use a 4.0 stitch, and ¼" seam allowance (sa). 

Here you can see the start of tacking the top edges together.   I am using "Getta Grips" clips to hold all the tops of the exterior p/v bag and the fabric lining.

Next it is time to add the trim.  It will be sewn on the outside of the bag with right sides together and then will be wrapped around the top toward the inside of the bag. 

I start to add the trim in a place where it will not be seen easily.  I start just before the back side seam, which will be a great place because when the straps are in place the seam will be under the strap!   Sew right sides together with a 3/8" SA.  Once you have sewn around entire top and then reach the spot where you started sewing the trim on, lay the end of the trim over where you started and sew for about ¾" more, then backstitch a few stitches.

Next, start to turn up and over the p/v trim, and finish wrapping it over the top of the bag and clip in place.  Get out your zipper foot, and  put a piece of scotch tape on the zipper foot! Now stitch in the ditch all the way around the top to sew down the trim.  This means that you will stitch on the outside of the bag right under the trim, and this will catch the trim edge that has been wrapped over and behind.  As you sew please keep tucking the trim tightly around the top and under so that you have an even size of trim all around the top of the bag!  This is easier to do, just breathe and stop ever few inches or so to check and make sure it is tucked under.

The last thing to do is to pink the inside edge of the p/v, to give it a nice finish. 

Roll the edge of the p/v up and then trim with the pinking shears. When you cut with the pinking shears this way, then it is assured that you will not cut the lining on accident.  Make sure to continue cutting in the pattern of the pinking around the entire trim, so the peaks of the pinking are seamless!! 

And here is the Urbanista HoBo!! Next week I will show you how to make the Strap slot…it totally replaces the need to use gromments!

Thank- You Andrea for allowing me to come play in your sandbox!!  Have a great week sewing everyone!!

Handmade Dress Up: DIY Mini Mouse Dress Up Costume Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! You'll find a new tutorial for sewing, glueing or crafting a dress up costume every day. Please subscribe so you don't miss the other 27 bloggers and their wonderful tutorials! Like what you see? Support these guests by pinning their projects or stumbling the posts!

Welcome Mandy! Thanks for the Mini Mouse Costume Tutorial! 

Hi everyone!! I'm Mandy, from over at Sugar Bee Crafts:

  

Here's the whole gang on our recent vacation:

I enjoy all things crafty and have lots of DIY and tutorials on my blog.  I even have a link party on Tuesdays so I can see your craftiness - then I show off a bunch of you on Wednesdays.  You might know me from a couple of my posts (click picture to check them out!):

Handmade Dress-Up Series - - what a fun idea!  Do you have kids that want to wear their dress-ups ALL.DAY.LONG.  Don't we all?!?  So with my quick tutorial today, I wanted to show you how to make a "dress-up" outfit that's comfy too - more like an everyday outfit.  So here we go - Minnie Mouse outfit, gone casual - -

You know how cheap - er, "frugal" - I am, so souvenir shirts aren't even an option.  But we need something Disney, right?  I made the girls SUPER cute Minnie Mouse outfits.  I didn't take many tutorial pictures, because it's pretty basic.   First I made the pants - I couldn't decide if it would be hot or cold, so I went mid-way with capris.  I just used whatever pattern I had bought on sale for $1 at Joann's and used the red dot fabric..  Then I slightly gathered the black dot fabric and attached ruffles to the ends of the pants.
Then I got to thinking how I hope the girls even know who Minnie Mouse is (we're cable deprived so if it's not on PBS...) so I googled Minnie Mouse Images - - guess which one they zeroed in on??

That's right, the risque Minnie adult outfit, 2nd one in on the top row.  Of course.  I had thought about doing a shirt with a big appliqued head on it, but they saw that picture and vetoed the applique.  They wanted a belt and shirt like that outfit.  I wasn't sewing a shirt (are you with me - pants are so easy to whip up, but a shirt - intimidating!) but I thought we could do a belt.
So I made a belt by attaching two ruffles of black dot onto the sides of a strip of red dot, then sewed the strip all the way around the shirt to make a casing.  To make it look more fitted, like a belt, I threaded elastic through the opening, just like you would when you make an elastic waistband in pants.

The elastic gave it a little gather and some body - I think it turned out cute.

Then they needed a bow, like Minnie.  I covered headbands in black dot then made a big bow (like here, but 2 loops instead of 4) out of red dot and glued it on top.  It held on great!

The whole Minnie Mouse Outfit is really cute!  I wish I could have gotten a picture with both girls wearing theirs but one is at school and it's blog crunch time so I couldn't wait.

So, maybe $6-8 on fabric and then 2 shirts at $3.50 each.  Great deal - way better than a Disney Gift Shop.  And cuter, if you ask me.  Outfits in action:

Oh, and more recently I made these cute Minnie Mouse hairclips that I show off on my blog, if you want to check those out...

And other dress-up ideas on my blog (click the titles to take you to the posts):

The Upside-Down Man:

Ghost Pillowcase Dress:

Dress like a cow:

Hope to see you in my corner of the blog world, www.SugarBeeCrafts.com!!

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Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Bat Mask Tutorial

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Welcome Susan! Thanks for the wonderful bat mask tutorial!

Hey all you Train to Crazy passengers! 

I’m Susan and my blog is Living with Punks. 

I am so happy to be here with Andrea today showing you a fast and easy bat mask pattern for the little ones.  My punks (who are 9) still fly around the house with these on.

And little sister loves her too because you can make it in pink…or purple, whatever color is on the top of her list for the week!

Let’s get started:

 

Materials 1/4 yard felt. I try to use wool felt, but you can use acrylic. Contrasting Thread Coordinating Thread 12" of 1/2" elastic Instructions 1. Print out the FREE Bat Mask Pattern Download here and cut out

2. Fold the felt piece so you have a double layer of felt to cut through. Pin the mask pattern to the felt to prevent shifting while cutting. To cut the eye, just fold that particular portion in half and make a slit to get your scissors thru, and then cut around the eye piece. Take your elastic and place it on the side of the opening closest to the flat side of the wing and secure with pins

3. Take your contrasting thread and begin stitching 1/8" away from the raw edge. Stitch all the way around, being careful as you go around the points and curves. I found it useful to hand turn the needle around the tighter places.

4. Use your coordinating thread to stitch around the eyes.

5. Put on your little punk and watch him fly through the air! You can always make a pink princess bat mask for that little girly too, if you have one....we all know they have that bat squeal down!

 

Here are a few tutorials you can find on my blog

Stop by Living with Punks anytime or you can be my friend on Facebook and I’ll keep you updated on all the latest

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Handmade Dress Up Series: Crochet Monster Hat Tutorial

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Welcome Emily! Thanks for the wonderful DIY Viking Helmet Tutorial!

Hey there! I'm Emily from The Boy Trifecta. I'm excited to be part of Andrea's fantastic series, but I do have a confession. I don't really do handmade costumes. Well, at least not sewn costumes - we did this cardboard box robot thing last year. See, I REALLY hate to spend a ton of time on something and then only have it worn for a few hours. So, today I'm sharing something that your little one can use all fall and winter long!
 

This little crochet hat should fit toddlers and young children. It fits both my 1-year-old and 3-year-old monsters.   

Crochet is really easy and fun. If you don't already know how, now is the time to learn! I learned through watching YouTube videos, but there is also a Crochet School series going on right now over here.

Abbreviations:

sl = slip stitch

dc = Double Crochet

sc = Single Crochet

hdc = Half Double Crochet

For the hat, use a worsted weight yarn, a size H hook, and join each round with a slip stitch around the beginning chain.Total stitch count per round is in the parentheses. Starting chain doesn't count toward the final stitch count. Repeat the stitch pattern between the asterisks until the end of the round.

Hat:

Chain 4, and join with a sl in the first chain.

Round 1: 10 dc into the loop you just formed (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch2, *2 dc in each dc* (20 dc)

Round 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in the first stitch, 2 dc in next*  (30 dc)

Round 4: Ch2, *1 dc in first 2 stitches, 2 dc in next* (40 dc)

Round 5: Ch2, *1 dc in first 3 stitches, 2 dc in next* (50 dc)

Round 6: Ch2, *1 dc in first 4 stitches, 2 dc in next* (60 dc)

Round 7-18: Ch 2, *1 dc in each dc* (60 dc)

Fasten off.

To make the smiley mouth on the front of the hat:

Count 20 stitches around from where you fastened off IN THE DIRECTION YOU CROCHET (this is different for lefties and righties) and attach yarn.

Row 1: Ch 2, dc in next 5 stitches, hdc in next 10 stiches, dc in next 5 stitches

Row 2: Ch2, turn work, dc in next 5 stitches, hdc in next 10 stitches, dc in next 5 stitches

Row 3: Repeat row 2. Fasten off. Weave in end, and flip mouth up toward the hat.

Using a small piece of felt, cut two triangles and place them like teeth between the hat body and the mouth. Stitch in place with a needle and thread.

Eye:

Round 1: Make a magic loop, and do 10 sc in the magic loop. (10 sc)

Round 2: 2 sc in every stitch (20 sc)

Switch color

Round 3: *Sc in 2, 2 sc in next* (30 sc)

Round 4: *sc in 2, 2 sc in next* (40 sc)

Fasten off, and leave tail long enough for sewing onto hat.

Spikes (these are basically just shorter versions of these dino spikes):

Round 1: Make a magic loop/ring, and do 6 single crochets in the loop. Pull tight. (6 sc)

Round 2: Single crochet around (6 sc)

Round 3: 2 single crochet in first stitch, 1 sc in next stitch - repeat around (9 sc)

Round 4: Single crochet in each stitch (9 sc)

Round 5: 2 single crochet in first stitch, 1 sc in next stitch - repeat around (14 sc)

Round 6: Single crochet around (14 sc)

Round 7: Single crochet around (14 sc)

Fasten off, and leave a long enough tail to sew to the top of the hat. 

Sew all of your spikes and your eye onto the hat, and then send your little monster out to play (or rake the yard - whatever)!

 

Thanks for having me Andrea!

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Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Viking Helmet Tutorial

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Welcome Amanda! Thanks for the wonderful DIY Viking Helmet Tutorial!

Hello there, I'm Amanda from Kitschy Coo. I'm an American ex-pat living in Scotland with my husband and two kids, working full time as a children's clothing designer and maker. When I'm not making things and blogging about them (including more than thirty tutorials!), you can often find me looking suspiciously around my garden: Although I am normally wearing a sweater, because Scotland is cold. Regular readers of mine will know that I am passionate about Vikings, (or one Viking in particular), so today I'm sharing a tutorial on how to make a Viking helmet for your child. Freud spins in his grave.

I wanted the helmet to be sturdy and lofty to resemble a metal one, so I used heavy wovens and batting. If you want to forgo the batting or make it in a stretch fabric like fleece, make sure you use a larger seam allowance than the 1/4" I'm using for this. The pattern pieces will yield a final hat circumference of approximately 22", which fits both my four and nearly six year old. If you want to make a hat that is smaller or larger, grading 1/4" to the inside or outside of each edge of the main hat body piece will change the total circumference by one inch. Remember you will need to adjust your band pieces too! Materials: 1/3 yd grey fabric (I used polycotton) 1/3 yd white fabric (I used twill) 1/3 yd lining fabric (I used twill) 1/3 yd batting (I used Thinsulate) something to stuff the horns with (I used Thinsulate scraps I hoard due to compulsiveness) 24" trim (I used 2" Celtic trim because that's what I had, but thinner trim or braid would be nice too) Here's the trickiest part, the drafting of your pieces. Lucky for you, I've done this bit and it only took me four attempts to get there. In the end I had to drape it on my son's head while he watched television. Not my finest hour!

This is your hat body piece that you will use to cut four outer pieces and four lining pieces.

Draft a circle that has these dimensions. Fold it in half so it has a easy to see the diameter. You're not going to cut any fabric with this, but you'll need it later!

These are your horn pieces. Don't worry about getting your pieces exactly the same shape as mine, but keep the straight line measurements exact (the 3"h from the horn, the 4.5" from the wedge) and make sure the diagonal line of the wedge is the same length as the inner curve of the horn. You can also see that the top of the wedge doesn't go to a sharp point, it is flat and 1/2" wide.

These are your band pieces. There are two outer bands (one of mine is hiding under the other), and two batting pieces (same width but half the height).

While your batting is out, lay your four outer pieces right side up and pin in place.

Baste around all three edges and trim excess away. Repeat for all four pieces and then set them aside.

Right sides facing, pin the curves inner edge of the horn to the straight edge of the wedge. Use lots of pins to keep the wavy bit away from the stitch line.

Stitch together with 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat for the other side, making sure that you have right sides facing again.

Now it should look like this!

Pin together the long curved edges, and stitch that too. Turn it right side out.

Use something pokey to turn out fully and then stuff it with filler just to the curve (where my thumb is). You want to stuff it quite firmly. Then finger press the raw edges to the inside of the horn by 1/4" and pin in place. Repeat the whole process for the other horn, and then set them both aside.

Right sides facing, place one outer hat piece on top of another and stitch up one side. Leave a one inch gap starting one inch from the bottom edge. Repeat for the other two outer pieces, only sewing one side of each. Repeat for your lining pieces, but do not leave a gap. Unfortunately I didn't take a single picture that showed the lining at any stage, I'm mysterious like that.

On the right side of your outer hat, pin the circle you drafted .75" up from the bottom edge. The diameter line should line up with the seam so that it is centered. Trace around your circle with chalk and then unpin the circle. Repeat on the other side.

Carefully place one of the horns on top of the chalk circle so they match and pin all the way around. Make sure the raw edges are still turned under.

Sew as close to the edge as possible, all the way around. Repeat for the other horn.

Right sides facing, match the two outer pieces along the top raw edge and pin together. Make sure the seams meet evenly at the middle. Sew along this edge, and you have a three dimensional hat! Through the openings under each horn, stuff the rest of the filling to make your horns nice and sturdy and then sew the gaps closed. Set aside.

Baste one of your batting pieces to the wrong side of top half of a band piece. Repeat for the other batting and band pieces. Place the two bands on top of each other, right sides facing, and sew the sides seams.

Fold up the bottom edge to meet the top edge, with the batting now sandwiched in between. Pin to secure the layers. Optional but recommended: baste the top edge closed, it's easier to catch at the layers.

Place your lining hat (you can see mine a little bit, it's black) inside the outer hat, wrong sides facing and with raw edges aligned. Pin together. Place your band over the top, again matching all of the raw edges together. The side seams of the band should align with the side seams of the hat (below the horns).

It's worth saying now that this particular sandwich has two layers of batting, three layers of outer fabric and one layer of lining fabric! Make sure you're using a heavy needle, and go sloooooooooowly. If you have a free arm function on your machine, use it, and then laugh at me for not having my free arm machine serviced. The horns are a serious pain to smoosh out of the way without a free arm, but still it's do-able :) I also serged this seam to reduce the bulk and let it sit more nicely.

Aha, the band is on! Almost done.

Starting at the centre back seam, pin your trim along the bottom edge so that just a tiny bit of the band sticks out. My trim is scratchy!

When you get back to where you started, fold over to hide the raw edge. Then pin all the way around again, along the top edge.

Going very slowly, sew along the bottom of the trim, very close to the edge all the way around.

Because of the lack of a free arm, I then flipped the hat out to sew all the way around the top edge. It's a little bit easier to maneuver those horns out of the way. When you get back to the start, pivot and sew the folded edge down. You're done! Find a fierce child.

Or a not so fierce one :)

My kids love dressing up all year / day round, but Halloween is a big deal in this family (okay... at least one quarter of this family) so I normally go all out. I wouldn't be able to sue you for slander if you said it was a vicarious pleasure of mine. Plus I get to blow pictures like this one up onto massive canvasses for the living room:

Halloween 2010: The campest superheroes in town

Halloween 2009: Toddler bleached skeletons

(caveat: I did not blow this one up, because the lighting is terrible)

Thanks very much Andrea for having me!

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Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Pillowcase R2D2 Costume Tutorial

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Welcome Stacey! Thanks for the wonderful R2D2 costume tutorial!

Hi. I'm Stacey. I blog at Boy, Oh Boy, Oh Boy! I'm a former Elementary school teacher and current SAHM with three rowdy boys (5, 2, and 15 months). A lot of the sewing and crafting you'll see is for my rambunctious crew.

They enjoy crafting right along with me and we have tons of fun planning great boy themed parties. We move around a lot for my husband's job so I'm often re-inventing our home decor and toying with our systems of organization.  Lately, I seem to be developing a pretty nasty case of pillow obsession as well.

 We're in the middle of a recent move and Halloween has gone from creeping up to practically right on the doorstep. Since my sewing machine is packed away in a box, on a very large ship, our Halloween costumes have fallen into the no sew category this year. I'm here today to share my tutorial for a very simple R2D2 pillowcase costume.

 Now that I've made one, I see about a zillion possibilities for using a pillowcase for a costume base. What an easy way to beef up your child's dress-up closet.

 What You'll Need: 

1 white pillowcase 

Blue and black fabric markers 

Scissors 

Ruler

Pencil 

1 plastic bowel
Glue gun, nail or drill
1 jar top
Blue and black permanent markers
ribbon

 Step 1: Body of Costume

After cutting, have your child try on the pillowcase.

Using pencil and ruler, draw a series of rectangles in the basic positions of R2D2's body.  Utilize Google images for proper placement.  If your child is anything like mine, authenticity is extremely important.  Can you see where I had to erase the pencil and try again?

Once you're happy with the general placement, outline with the black fabric marker.

using your Google image as a reference, fill in boxes with the blue fabric marker.  Can you tell that nap time was looming?

 Step 2: The Hat


Use your black permanent marker to color the entire jar top black.  Set aside to dry.

Again, using Google images for reference, draw a series of trapezoids and rectangles and color them in with your blue permanent marker.

 Once dry, use a glue gun to attach the black jar top.

Use a nail or drill to punch holes on both sides of the helmet.  Thread your ribbon through each hole and knot.

 There you have it.  Thank you for letting me share.  May the force be with you!

 

 

 

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How to sew leather straps for handbags and purses: Guest Post by Paradiso Designs

Today we're taking a break from the Handmade Dress Up Series to show you a tutorial for making your own leather purse straps! Cheryl from Paradiso Designs sells PDF purse patterns and knows her stuff about making bags! I hope you enjoy this tutorial!

My name is Cheryl Kuczek, and I have my very own sewing pattern company called Paradiso Designs

I have to thank the very generous Andrea for allowing me to show her audience something fun, and maybe new for all you lovely sewists out there!!

I have a lot of bag patterns that I started my company with.  Some of the bags have straps that look like leather, but they are not!  You may have seen another one of my creations gracing the pages of the last issue of Stitch…the Slouch Bag.  Here is a picture of the very first Slouch Bag that I made with Italian pleather and Italian laminated cotton.  This is a free downloadable pattern at Stitch Magazine on line….click here to get it!  You can see the strap that I made using my Paradiso Designs technique!

And now I am going to show you the step-by step tutorial for you!

A)    Here are the straps that I make for my bags.  The look like leather, they feel like leather, and they act like leather, but they are pleather/vinyl (pv). 

You can buy pleather and vinyl at many fabric stores, and it is not too expensive, plus you can then give your bags that designer lok to them.  The Slouch Bag looks kinda like a Marc Jacobs bag, but his bags can cost you $1200.00 or more.  I think it is dandy to make your own, and look like a million bucks with your own two hands.

B)     You need the proper tools….

TO SEW Pleather…you will want 110 OR 100 needles…they can be just regular, denim, leather or topstitch needles.  The topstitch are great because they have a bit bigger eye of the needle, which is nice if you are sewing using one of the newer 40 weight threads which can give the appearance of a thicker thread, therefore stitch.

You will need a telfon foot or put a piece of scotch tale on your regular foot.  These are Viking feet.  The Telfon works great on most pleathers. Patent like leathers may work better with the scotch tape.  I know that these machines have these feet;

• Viking has the H foot
• Bernina has the 52c or d foot that is Teflon, and the same number foot in green (non-stick) and will work on the patent like pleathers.
• Pfaff has a Telfon foot
• Brother/Babylock/White/Janome have a white plastic foot that does work on most pleathers.  This foot appears to be interchangeable between Brother, Babylock, White, and Janome.

You really need to cut pleather/vinyl (p/v) with a rotary cutter and not scissors because it is very important to have a smooth straight line!  I always cut my strap the entire width of the p/v.  
That would be around 54- 60".  Just a regular strap starts at about 42".

I have two of the kinds of p/v to use for straps.  The brown p/v has a woven backing on it, and the black has a "felted" backing.  These are perfect for being very durable and sturdy, exactly what I strap needs to last through wear and tear!

The strap starts out be 3 times its finished size!  So for a 1" strap, you would start with a 3" piece wide p/v, for 1.5" a 4.5"piece would be used, etc.

Next, a line is drawn 1/3 of the way across, as you can see in this picture the back side of the 3" pleather is marked with a line 1" from one edge.  Use a sharpie only in the same color as the pleather, I have seen sharpie bleed through.  On the felted back, I use a roller chalk, to make the line, this one is by Clover.  I love it as I cut A LOT of p/v all the time!

Finally it is now time to sew!! 

As you can see here, this is the start,  fold in the edge to the drawn line, I use these nifty "Get a Grip" Clips to hold the p/v folded into place as the first row if stitching is sewn.  I like to start 1/16" from the folded edge, and sew the entire length of pleather, 1/8" will work too.  Here are more tips…

• Only sew in one direction, otherwise the p/v will twist.
• I leave my threads long at the beginning, and cut them at the end so I do not forget which direction I need to sew.
• Use a 3.5-5.5 stitch length as you will be going through thick stuff here…using a bigger needle and stitch will be easier to sew and will look better
• you do not need to backstitch.

This picture gives you a look at what you will have after that first row of stitching, and look at the stitching…you DO NOT want little stitches.

The second row of stitches will "catch" the other end of the pleather…as the other side is folded toward the first row of stitches.  As you can see they edge is right next to the stitches, and this is what makes the edge disappear, and sew the 2^nd row of stitching 1/8" away from the 1^st row of stitches. 
Do not pull the p/v down, or the strap will start to twist, just "fold" to the line of stitching. 

If you do not have these measurement marks on your machine, you could make marks of where you must sew to get this configuration.

It is possible that you can get the line you need by moving your needle.

Ok…now turn the strap over to sew the 2 rows of stitching on the other side in exactly the same way as the first 2 rows of stitching. 

This is really pretty…think about your thread too…this thread matched with the appliqué' on this bag, and made it pop!!

And here is the finished bag…check out the end of the straps…I like to use the same color of thread as the strap for the satin stitching of strap edge and button holes…yes they really work. 

Here is another shot of the Urbanista HoBo Bag by Paradiso Designs…this pattern will be out in late November/December.  Old jeans were used upcycled to create the bag outer material.  Check out the p/v edging….I will do a tutorial about that next week, the cool bound like strap slot will be the week after that!!

And here is the full view of the bag!! 

Cupcake appliqué pattern by Paradiso Designs, out in late October!!

Thank-you again  Andrea for this opportunity!!

Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Baby Yoda Costume Tutorial

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Welcome Jill! Thanks for the wonderful baby Yoda costume tutorial!

Hi there! I’m Jill and I blog over at Made it on Monday.

My blog is all about crafting, sewing, creating and inspiring… but mostly sewing. I’m a wife, mother of a 20-month-old, work part time out of the home and run two etsy shops. And no, I can’t do it all. My house is a mess and dinner is typically late. But if I’ve had some time with my sewing machine or glue gun, life is good. Needless to say, I need quick and simple projects. Most of what you’ll see on my blog can be done in a day. And since Mondays are a day off for me, many of my projects are made on Monday.

I love this kid. One of the things that really excited me about becoming a mom was creating Halloween costumes for him. Last year, I actually got to make him two—one for Halloween and one for a movie night at church where we played the StarWars cartoon and encouraged kids to come in character.

Someone so little just had to be Yoda!

I wanted to keep it simple (since I’d made everything new for his Peter Pan costume), so I used a brown long sleeve onesie and pair of pants that we already had.

 

 

Using the hood of another hoodie as the pattern, cut out the two pieces for the hood out of a knit (they will be sewn up the middle).

 

 

Sew the two pieces together around the curved top and side, leaving the other two sides open.

 

 

Fold the front edge under and sew. I used a decorative stitch that looks like I used a serger, but a plain straight stitch or zig zag would work fine (for tips on sewing with knits, check out this post).

 

 

Try the hood on your baby (Jace LOVED getting to model).

 

 

The hood peaked, taking away from the nice round shape of Yoda’s head, so I boxed the corner (which was more of a rounded corner).

 

 

Since I was using a onesie, the neck was different than what you’d see on your typical hood. I didn’t want to sew the hood to both the back and front of the shirt because I was worried it would limit my ability to get the shirt over Jace’s head (the kid has a big noggin). That meant I’d have to use ties to keep the front around his face correctly.

 

 

If you’re using a onesie, cut two strips of the green fabric, zig zag stitch down the middle (for the fun and look of it).

 

 

Pin the hood to the shirt at the collar, right sides together. If using a regular shirt, pin it all around the neck, overlapping at the front. If using a onesie, only pin along the back and stop a the shoulders.

 

Fold under the remaining fabric that won’t get sewn to the onesie, pin the straps between the two layers, and sew until you get to the point where you’ll attach to the onesie.

Sew with the onesie facing up so you can sew just along the line of the original serging on the shirt.

 

Now you’re done attaching the hood! Next, on to the ears. I found a picture of Yoda online and used it as my inspiration.

 

 

Cut out a pattern for the shape of his ears and cut 4 of it out of the fabric (remember to leave space for seam allowance). Sew the front and back of each ear together and then slightly stuff with batting.

 

 

Sew about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in from the edge to give some definition to the ear. Because it’s already stuffed, this will give it some nice body.

 

 

Cut two slits in the hood where you want the ears. I had the hood sit folded and used my rotary cutter so I could cut a nice slit in both sides at the same time, making them the same length. Tuck the ear through the slit so the cut edges of the slit and the ear are all facing the same way. Sew the ear to the hood.

 

 

And you’re done with Yoda’s head! You can stop here if you’d like. Or, if you want to add some batting around the ears to help show Yoda’s age, you can. I figured, since my fabric was a darker green, this was a young Yoda.

 

 

I wanted to also add hands and feet, so I cut them out of green felt, and sewed on to the cuffs of the sleeves and feet.

 

 

Finished product!

 

 

I also wanted Yoda to have his robe, so I cut a rough shape out of a lighter brown heavy weight fabric (my mother-in-law gave it to me… it was a table cloth once upon a time!), and sewed it together.

 

 

Then it was a matter of resisting the urge to wake up my napping baby to try it on. He finally woke up, and I was so excited to try it out. This kid loves to play dress up! He gets so excited when I put costumes on him.

 

Yes, this is the cutest Yoda you’ve ever seen.

 

 

Thanks for letting me share! I’d love it if you stopped by my blog and said hi! You’ll find clothes to make for yourself, home décor, accessories and so much more!

 

Thanks, Andrea, for having me!

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Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Jimmy Giggle Mobile Tutorial

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All of you familiar with Jimmy Giggle are in luck! Thanks for the wonderful Giggle Mobile Tutorial!

Hi, I’m Narelle from Cook Clean Craft, where I share family-friendly recipes, household cleaning and organization tips, and fun crafts, including sewing, felt, cardboard and crochet. I’m a stay-at-home Mum from Brisbane, Australia with a toddler son and a baby girl.

The Giggle Mobile is the amazing car/hovercraft/plane/submarine driven by Jimmy Giggle and Hoot the Owl (the hosts of ABC2 – the kids’ TV channel here in Australia). For those with blank looks, here’s the song:

Not only is my son obsessed with Giggle and Hoot, he loves all things transport. With all the cardboard boxes I’ve been collecting (thank you, IKEA and internet shopping), I thought it was time to create a fun cardboard Giggle-mobile costume.
Note: Originally, this was going to be a simple cardboard box car, but the perfectionist in me took over, and it somehow became a cardboard masterpiece. I really hope it lasts more than a few days before my son destroys it!
Materials
Cardboard boxes
Paint
2 paper/plastic plates
Fabric strips
Hot Glue Melts and Glue Gun
Scissors, rotary cutter, box cutter
Split pins
Bottle tops
Stick and Sew Velcro
Method
I started with a cardboard box that my toddler could stand in, but not much bigger than that. It ended up being 10.5” wide, 14” long and 6” deep. I also used a large flat-pack box.

I traced around the cardboard box and then cut a rectangle from the flat-pack box that was 8.5” longer and 7.5” wider than the small cardboard box.
I hot glued the smaller box onto the larger piece of cardboard and cut out a hole in the base.

I then cut out the following pieces for the car panels:

The pieces on the right are a mirror image of those on the left. I worked out the shapes of these pieces by bending and folding the cardboard pieces around the box. They weren’t worked out precisely and I ended up trimming piece as I glued the car together.
I peeled off the top layer of cardboard from the two side panels to expose the corrugations underneath:

I also cut two wings that were 12” long and 8” wide (so they fit inside the side panels), and cut some extra thin strips of cardboard 12” long.

I hot-glued the thin strips to the edge of the wings. This is to stop the wings from pulling all the way out.

 

Then it was time to hot-glue all the panels into place, starting at the back. I bent and trimmed the cardboard as needed as I went:

And then onto the front:

So the Giggle-mobile looks like this:

I cut a small slit in the flap on the sides to insert the wings:

Then inserted the wing and added some small strips of cardboard to guide the wing in and out. I also stuck small pieces of cardboard either side of the slit to reinforce it.

I painted the corrugated side of the side panels red, and glued them into position:

I then used a split pin, plastic plate and plastic bottle top to create a steering wheel:

 

I used another plastic plate, and tall, skinny cardboard box, a piece of cardboard cut like a propeller and another bottle top to make the hovercraft part on the back:

The plastic plate is glued to the cardboard box, and the cardboard propeller spins. So now you have completed the shell for your Giggle-mobile:

I cut two rectangles from a cereal box, and glued them into a cylinder:

I filled one end with paper and glued it into position for the headlights. Oops, no photo here… you’ll have to wait until the finished product to see!
The Giggle-mobile is decorated with large buttons. My buttons were created from painted cardboard circles.

 

At this point, I was thinking I’d spent enough time on this masterpiece, so didn’t bother drawing on the “threads” for the buttons!
The buttons were glued into position and a few stripes were painted on. Finally, I used two strips of fabric (webbing or ribbon would also work), and used stick and sew Velcro to attach it to the box for the straps for wearing the Giggle-mobile.

 

And finally, the Giggle-mobile was complete, as a car:
 
Or as a plane:

 

My son loves pulling the wings in and out:

Even if you’re not a Giggle and Hoot fan, you can use the same steps to create your own car/plane/UFO. I’d love to see what you make.

If you have time, I’d love for you to stop by Cook Clean Craft for more fun tutorials, including:

   

Thanks for having me, Andrea!

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Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Ruffle TeePee Tutorial

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Are you ready for the MOST amazing Ruffled Tee Pee Tutorial ever? You didn't even know your little girl needed this until now. So go make a Ruffled TeePee and watch her imagination flow! Thanks Kelly!

Hi friends! Kelly here from Sewing In No Mans Land. For those who don't know me and my crazy blog I am a foreign service momma of three (in 3 weeks it will be four). This means I move around a lot with my hubby who works at American Embassy's all over the world. We just left Dili, East Timor (hence the no mans land ha!) and are heading to Paris. I love to make my own patterns and give the digital files away for free on my blog. I would love if you would hop on over and check out Sewing In No Mans Land! I am thrilled to be a part of Train to Crazy Towns Hand Made Dress Up Series! Now, my tutorial isn't a dress up persay. But I know there would be plenty fabulous tutorials for costumes and I could instead offer one for a "prop" of sorts. Something to spark the imagination. I love love love over the top dramatic things... um, well except for when my two year old goes that way, although sometimes that can be funny. But, when it comes to photo shoots and said two year old's room the more over the top the better. The same goes for her dress ups and play room! I have been wanting a ruffle teepee for her for some time:

When I was invited to be part of this series I thought I would have to try making my own.

While it isn't "difficult" per-say it is time consuming, and a bit of an exercise trying to harangue all that fabric while sewing ha! The secret to keeping this affordable is sheets. Yup, sheets. All of the ruffles you see before you were once a flat bed sheet from Pottery Barn.  

Um, cheap Pottery Barn sheets you say? If I weren't currently residing in UT those sheets would be from Ikea or Walmart, but since I am here, I am lucky enough to frequent the Pottery Barn factory reject store. Whenever they mess up on a monogram or someone sends it back, it is destined for UT. This is how I have adorable monogramed stockings, tree skirt, trick or treat bags, PJ's, Easter baskets etc for my kids for practically pennies. I headed to the reject store with the idea of a nice organic, white, beige and burlap tent in mind, but when I saw these awesome colors for 3 dollars a sheet I just had to go for it. After buying a plain white king sized sheet for five bucks that read "Muellller" on the top tab, the 4 flat twin sheets for 3 dollars each and the cute pillow case that you see in the pics for a dollar, I was out less then 25 bucks! (I totally didn't even think to mention where this is in the original post. It is a Down East Outfitters Clearance center, NOT just any Down East, this is a special one that only has clearance items. It is located at 3505 West 3500 South West Valley City, UT 84119 , you will probably find me there with my head in a large bin riffling through ha! You have to hit it on certain days to get the awesome quilts, towels etc. I think they get in shipments on Wed but don't hold me to that.) Of course things got busy and these sheets sat in the coat closet until this last weekend when I finally had time to whip it up and make Evie a new dress for the shoot. Note the shoes... yeah I had to wrestle them onto her. The only reason she finally wore them is she realized the ground was covered in sharp burs and she had no other option.

As I mentioned before this is not technically advanced sewing but it does take a good chunk of time to do. It is a hefty amount of gather stitching with a lot of pinning and re-pinning. If you are up for it lets make a Dreamy Teepee!

What you will need:

1. One King Sized sheet or two twin sheets sewn together.
2. Several twin flat sheets (the number depends on how fluffy you want your ruffles and how many layers you think looks good. I had extra fabric left over)
3. 6 PVC pipes (mine were the precut 5 ft. ones at Lowes for 1.30, if I did it over I would have them cut me 6 ft ones from the 8 ft poles, the ten is a bit squatty no?)
4. Thin rope or several strong rubber bands (which they do not carry at Joannes by the way, I found that odd)
5. Ribbon for ties and decor
6. One Package of the widest quilt binding available.
7. Optional: cute embellishments for the top of the Teepee

There are several great tutorials out there on how to make a plain 'ole teepee and the choice is totally yours. Originally I planned on actually cutting several triangles and sewing them together but then I was concerned about how the square bottom would be with the ruffles. In the end I made my Teepee a lot like Meg's on Sew, Mama, Sew. This used the least fabric and was super quick and easy. I used two twin sheets sewn together and ended up with a bunch of extra fabric. Once you have your "half circle" cut out is where I deviate from that tutorial. I had previously cut all my sheets into as long of strips as possible. I wanted my ruffles to be wide so that I didn't have too many tiers (not that I don't think this could be adorable, I would love to see one with 20 tiers I would just pull my hair out doing it). Once cut I laid made a long chain by sewing them all together. I would match up two ends, right sides together, sew down the edge then open them up and repeat the process on the new end until I had a looooong snake of fabric. After this process I did a gathering stitch all along the very long top. I did sew with one hand while holding the thread a bit taught as seen in this ruffling tutorial. I wanted it to REALLY be noticeably ruffled and the machine needed a little help with this. I did NOT hem the bottom. You totally can and maybe one day I will regret this decision AND if I were selling these I totally would. But since it will mainly be used as a photo prop and toy I really like the frayed unfinished look, plus it probably saved me a good hour of monotonous sewing. Once all your ruffle tiers are prepped, lay out your teepee half circle on the floor. (please excuse the horrible carpet in this picture. Our hotel room does not have the best crafting space, but you gotta do right?)
Letting the bottom of the ruffle overhang the bottom of your teepee slightly pin your gathered edge to your half circle alllllll the way around, following the curve. Do NOT skimp on the pins, it is near impossible to keep this straight otherwise. Once you reach the end reposition your "ruffling" and cut off the extra to be used at a later tier or for making embellishments :) With the ruffle well pinned head over to your sewing machine. Now topstitch the ruffle into place. It can be tricky managing so much material in a small space. I pulled an extra chair right next to me so I could rest the extra fabric there and not have it hanging down pulling on the stitches as I went. Once you are done head back to your floor and spread it out. Remove all the pins (this can take a while but make sure you get them all). Grab your next tier. Again pin the gathered edge to the half circle only this time the bottom edge should over lap by at least 2 inches with your bottom ruffle. Again pin all the way around, remove excess then topstitch. Continue this process until you are right up next to your semi-circle at the top. You should have a very heavy, somewhat awkward teepee cover. I guess you could finish off the semi circle and call it done but I think this next part really adds a professional looking touch. Using pins, pin down the ruffles at the opening edge so that they stay nice and in place. Do this about 2 inches in from the edge. Now take your quilters binding and starting at the bottom of one side, slide it over the ruffles (it is already nice and folded for your) and topstitch it in place, going up one side, around the small semi-circle and down the other side. If you prefer you can stop at the top, cut the binding, sew a second piece down the other side then finish it off with a third piece around the semi-circle top. It is totally up to you. I then sewed on some fun puff ball embellishments, though I think a over sized ricrac would be pretty darn cute as well.

This gives it a nice clean edge and a great place to sew the ties for keep it together. In keeping with my "unfinished" look I sewed ripped strips of fabric one across from the other to tie the top of the teepee. I ended up sewing 6 strips so that I could tie three knots but again this is up to you. I then grabbed some ribbon and on the inside of the quilters binding, every 8 inches or so sewed some ribbon used to tie the edge to one of the PVC pipes.
I finished off the look with a giant oversized fabric rosette with birdcage netting over it. If I hadn't been pressed for time this is the part I would have gone hog wild on with lots of rosettes and ribbon etc. I also had fun making the massive, over the top rosette head band and butterflies in a jar.   I had heard somewhere you could get these cool lightening bugs in a jar at Michaels where when you tap the glass they glow and fly but everyone here looked at me like I was nuts when I asked. I am a big fan of giving kiddos something to hold during photoshoots. We as adults have no idea what to do with out hands half the time, kids are the same :) Plus then you get cool shots like this:   

So there you have it. Easy right? I am absolutely going to make the rustic, romancy white and beige one I had in mind and maybe a boys themed one? They are so cool and the kids LOVE them. I still had everything in the car from the shoot when we headed to soccer tonight and both boys begged me to put it up. Which any other time I would have obliged but I was snack mom tonight and seriously if I had to carry one more thing down the slope leading to the field I absolutely would have fallen over and with three weeks until Daddy gets home I am doing everything humanly possible to stave off labor ha! I hope you have a blast creating and using yours!! Thank you so much Andrea for letting me be a part of this amazing series!

Cheers

Kelly

PS The teepee does not stave off all crying during a photoshoot like I had hoped..... Lila was not impressed ha!

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Handmade Dress Up: DIY Very Quick Ladybug Wings Tutorial

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Hello! I had another guest planned for today but as you know, our families are more importand than blogging so I'm stepping in for her today with a repost of some quick and easy wings I made for my daughter a few years ago. I've since used this method to make butterfly wings as well. So, if you have a little one that just MUST be a ladybug or a butterfly (bat?) this afternoon, go ahead and try this method!

My daughter changed her mind about her Halloween costume 3 days before Halloween. I searched for ladybug costume ideas and came up with a few cute examples. I couldn't find anything that was quick and easy and used what I had around the house so I invented my own. This method could be used for any type of dress up wings and took less than an hour to make. Most of the materials were repurposed.

What you will need:

1 old red t-shirt (or red knit, felt or fleece fabric)

1 small piece of black fabric (or old t-shirt or sweater)

28" of elastic (I used 1/2" width)

Old cereal box

Heavy stabilizer, or something equivalent.

Wonder under or similar for applique

Making the wings

Trace the shape of the wings onto the cereal box. Cut out one wing then use that as a template to trace the other wing so they are exactly the same shape. My wings were basically a semi-circle with a bit of a change up at the bottom. You could use a plain semi-circle and be just fine though.

 

Then use your cardboard as a template for your fabric. Using a pen (a fabric pen is preferred but it really doesn't matter) trace the shape of your wings onto your fabric. I used a men's XL t-shirt and had plenty of fabric. I put the template's straight edge on the fold so I only had to make one cut for each wing.

DO NOT CUT ALONG YOUR MARKED LINE! Cut at least a half an inch around your marked line. You will be sewing directly on that line you drew.

Trace 8 small circles onto your wonder under. I used a kids' cup as my template. Iron the wonder under onto your black fabric. Cut out the circles and iron them on your red wing fabric. Note: The first time I did this I was not paying enough attention and put the dots on the front of one of the wings and the back of the other. Oops. Pay attention.

Sew around the edge of the circles with a zigzag stitch. I recommend using a tear away stabilizer on the back of the fabric if you are using knits to prevent puckering. If you don't have a stabilizer any old scrap of fabric will work. Just cut out a piece a bit larger than your circle and put it on the underside of the fabric. 

Next, fold the wing fabric, wrong sides together and put the cardboard sandwiched in between. I sewed the wings up around the edges, sewing on my marked line) and then trimmed the fabric.

Next cut 2 rectangular pieces of the red fabric and 2 pieces of the heavy stabilizer. In a pinch, lightweight cardboard could work instead of the stabilizer. It won't be as flexible but it will keep the wings from sagging. In reality, no kid would know the difference.

Put the stabilizer in between the red fabric and sew around the edges. Trim the edges close to the seam.

Next cut the elastic into two 14" pieces. I made a casing for my elastic but that isn't necessary. 

Now lay the wings down, dot side down and place this connector piece in between them where you want. Position the elastic and then sew it all together. This is how I placed mine.

That's it! You're done. Now you have ladybug wings!

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Handmade Dress Up: DIY Dino Tail Tutorial

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Are you ready to dress your little guy and gal as a dino? Check out this dinosaur tail tutorial from Jessica!

I'm Jessica from Running With Scissors where I share all my projects, from sewing, crafting, decor, painting thrift store makeovers, building furniture, and whatever new hobby comes along.
We love Halloween at my house. This year we actually decorated on Labor Day, at my 3 year old son's request.  So we get 2 full months of Halloween celebrating in...my husband tolerates our Halloween enthusiasm.
So I was so excited be able to share a quick easy costume tutorial for the boys! (Or girls, but we all know there is always a lack in boy things.)
But just as a quick disclaimer:
**Please be respectful of my designs and only use this tutorial for personal use.  Not intended for commercial sale or manufacture, even on a home based scale.
Make them for yourself, to give as gifts, but I'd appreciate not using it for profit.
Thanks.

 
DINO TAIL TUTORIAL

Today I'll be showing you how to make dinosaur (or dragon) tails!

This is a simple, fun, toy for kids.  I designed these tails with two straps that wrap around their waist with velcro in front making it easy for them to get them on and off themselves. 

These have been fun during these long winter months when we have to play inside.  My boy has "dino fights" with his dad where he wiggles his bum to use the tail as a sword...it's pretty cute.

SUPPLIES:

1/2 to 3/4 yard main fabric-- pretty much any fabric that's not stretchy (this yellow is polyester lining)

1/4 yard spike fabric

5" velcro

Polyfil batting (small bag)

CUT LIST:

MAIN FABRIC: 
tail: (cut 2): 22" x 11"
waist straps: (cut 4): 12" x 3"
circle: 7" in diameter
(*I cut a 7" square, fold it in fourths, then cut the curve from fold to fold)

CONTRASTING FABRIC:
spikes (cut 2): 22" x 3.5"

INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Trim tail strips
Taking your two strips 22" x 11", lay them face down.  On one end you'll measure 4.5" from each side.  The two inches left in the middle will be the tip of the tail.
On the other end, you'll measure 4" along the sides as a marker.  Connect these two markings to create a diagonal for the cone shape of the tail.  Cut off the triangular sides and throw them away.

2. Make Spike Strip

NOTE: To make the spikes easier, you could cut 1 strip out of felt or fleece and just cut out a spike strip leaving the raw edges that won't fray, rather than sewing your spikes with 2 strips of fabric.

Take your two spike strips and lay them right sides together.  Draw a row of triangles along the strip for the tail spikes.  Begin at one end and work your way to the other, making the spikes shorter and narrower.  I left about 1/2" between each spike.

Sew along your spike line.  When you get to the corners it helps to pivot by dropping your needle down into the fabric, lift your presser foot, move the fabric, then start sewing again.

Once your spikes are sewn, trim along your sewn line with 1/4" seam allowance along the whole strip.

Next, you'll need to trim the seam allowances to make it easier to turn the spikes right side out.

On the top of the spikes, you'll trim off the point, being careful not to snip through your seam.

In between each spike, you'll snip diagonally into each corner, once again don't snip through your sewing. 

Then you can turn the whole strip of spikes right side out, using a pen lid, knitting needle, etc. to push the tips of the points out.  Iron your spike strip nice and flat.

3. Sew Tail Body

First we'll sew the spikes to one piece of the tail.  Pin the largest spike to the tall side of your tail piece, lining up the raw edges.

Sew the spike strip to the tail piece with 1/4" seam allowance.  This is just basting, or tacking the pieces together.

Next, put your second tail piece so right sides are together, with the spike strip in the middle of the sandwich.

You'll sew down the spike strip again, this time with 1/2" seam allowance, making sure you sew past the troughs so there is a space between each spike when you turn it right side out.

Also, sew a slight curve as you go around the tip of the tail.

When you sew around to the other side, you'll need to stop your seam to leave a hole for turning the tail right side out later.  I leave about 4 to 5" unsewn underneath the spikes.  This way, it's on the bottom of the tail.

4. Sew Waist Straps

Take your 4 strips for the waist straps and put 2 right sides together.  This will give you two sets.

You'll sew down a long side, across the short, and up the other long side on each set.  Use 1/2" seam allowance.

Then you'll need to snip off the corners, being careful not to cut through your seam.

Next you'll turn each strap right side out, pushing out the corners with a pen lid or knitting needle.

I like to top-stitch the edges to make the straps lay nice and flat.  For this tail I used a zig-zag stitch with contrasting thread, but you could always just sew a straight stitch.

The last step to make your waist strap is to sew your velcro pieces to each end.   Center the velcro in the center of your strap and 1/2"  from the very end.

5. Complete Tail Construction

To close the large end of the taill, first mark the quarters by lining up the top (spike) seam with the bottom seam and pinning the folds on the sides.

Next you'll pin your waist straps inside the tail.  Pin the straps to the quarter side marks.

The important thing to remember is the velcro has to be pinned opposite so the straps will match up around the waist.  So put one waist strap with velcro down on the right side of the tail, then pin the other waist strap with the veclro facing up into the cavity of the tail.

Sew the straps to the sides of the tail 1/4" from edge. 

To finish off the tail, you'll pin your circle fabric (with the right side facing into the tail) around the large tail opening.  I fold my circle in quarters so I have a crease vertically and across to use as a guide to pin to the two seams (top and bottom) then line up with the waist straps on the sides.

Next you sew around your circle with 1/2" seam allowance.

6. Stuff and Finish

At this point your dino tail is sewn and you can turn it right side out through the hole you left on the bottom seam.  Your velcro waist straps should be oriented to match and stick together, and your spikes should stand up out of the top seam.

Next you'll stuff your tail with Poly-fil batting.  The density of your stuffing does determine how the tail will look.  I stuffed this yellow tail tighter than the blue or green tails, and I noticed it stood almost straight out from the boy's back, where leaving the stuffing a little looser makes a more droopy tail.  Whichever you prefer.

Once your tail is stuffed to your liking, pin the hole closed underneath.  I chose to just machine sew the seam shut, but it would probably look best to hand-sew the seam closed to allow it to lay flat. 

Then you're finished!  Now you can whip out a whole set with different colors!

Some ideas for variation:

-length: it's easy to make the tail longer or shorter, by cutting the tail and spike pieces longer than 22", but all the same length. 

-felt or fleece spikes: as mentioned ealier in tutorial, you could make the tail even easier by cutting felt or fleece spikes with one layer rather than sewing/ turning 2 pieces of fabric

-make it girly: you could make a more feminine tail for little girls by making the spikes rounded scallops rather than pointed spikes

-printed fabrics: I stuck with bright solids, but textured or printed fabrics would look awesome too.

Happy Halloween!  

If you are interested in more of my Halloween ideas, here are a few:

Dollar Store Creepy Tablescape          Fox/ Wolf/ Bear Costume Pattern          Kids Can Make Garland

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Handmade Dress Up: DIY Fairy Wand Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Like what you see? Please PIN it or Stumble it! Thanks!

Welcome Chris! Thank you for the Fairy Wand Tutorial!

Hi there!

My name is Chris, and I am the lady behind Pickup Some Creativity. I write about my love for creating, and try to spend a little time each day making something.  I believe creating is a divinely instilled quality we're born with, we just have to find the medium that works best for us!  Today I'm sharing a tutorial for making a fairy wand...the perfect accessory for the little fairy princess in your life.

 
Inspired by a fun pretend play fairy princess kit my daughter received several years ago, I made a matching wand for my baby.  Here's the inspiration wand:

Ready to make your own?  Here's the how-to.

You'll need:

• Template, download it HERE.  
• Fabric scraps, two 5"x5" squares
• Sparkly fabric paint and spray paint of your color choice
• 1/2" ribbon, grosgrain or satin
• Matching thread
• 1/2" diameter dowel
• Cluster fluff type stuffing
• Fabric glue or hot glue gun
• Sewing tools; including scissors, seam ripper, pins or pattern weight, and sewing machine, and helpful to have...pinking shears, my new favorite tool.

Step one.  Paint.  My inspiration wand's star was shiny satin, but I needed to use materials on hand.  So, I painted gold colored fabric with sparkly fabric paint.  I think the result was almost better than the original.

I used a sponge to make sure the paint was very thin.

I spray painted the dowel my chosen color.  It took three coats to get the best coverage.  Let everything dry well.

Step two.  Cut out your star and streamers. 
Using the template provided and right sides of the fabric together, cut out your star.

You'll need six streamer ribbons, each about 14" long.  Make sure the ends are cut on a diagonal.

Step three.  Sew and stuff your star.  With right sides together, pin your star together, leaving an opening in the bottom for turning, your dowel, and the streamers.  (I almost forgot the streamers...and had to unturn, pick out, and add them!)

 

After you sew your star, you'll want to trim and grade your seams.  Easy peasy version, just pink the edges!

 

Boy, did I feel sheepish when I realized I'd forgotten the all-important streamers!  I had to pick out the seam, and then carefully pin the ribbons in place.  When you make yours, pin the streamers in the seam before you sew.  I'd pin the ribbons into the center of the star to keep them out of the rest of the seams. 

 

 

 

 The more you stuff, the better the star will look.

Step four.  Insert and glue the dowel into the star.  I used fabric glue for my star, but hot melt glue would work well too.

 

 

Project complete!  I'm so happy with how the wand turned out, and so is my daughter.

My blog includes several free tutorials,  free patterns, and I also have a small etsy shop.  I am tickled to be included in Andrea's Handmade Halloween series, and love her emphasis on wearable designs.

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Handmade Dress Up: DIY IPhone/IPod Costume Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Please subscribe or follow on Twitter or Facebook so you don't miss the other 27 bloggers and their wonderful tutorials! Like what you see? Please PIN it or Stumble it! Thanks!

Next up, an IPhone or IPod costume tutorial from Jess! Such a fun idea!

Hey Train to Crazy Readers!  I’m Jess, and I blog over at If Only They Would Nap.  I have three boys [4, 1.5, and 8wks], so if you came to my house, you’d find a lot of noise, a lot of coffee, and a lot of sewing going on!


If any of you have kids like mine, they love technology.  My one-year-old absolutely loves to take my iPod [he could even say iPod before he could say his big brother’s name!] so I thought it would be so much fun to make him an iPod costume!  This tutorial is super easy and could even be completely no sew.  I made the costume so that it’s easy to get on and off, and could also be put over a winter coat if necessary... because in Wisconsin, you just never know!


Supplies:

• Black fabric - I suggest using jersey knit, felt, or fleece so that you don’t have to finish the edges.  I love to upcycle, so I used the back of a men’s T-Shirt. [If you want to make this a no-sew project, just use a black T-Shirt that your child will wear instead.]
• Sewing machine/thread
• Fabric Glue [I like Liquid Stitch]
• White and grey felt/knit/fleece for making the “screen”
• Velcro
• Fabric Marker - I suggest white/silver/grey - I used one with glitter!

1. Cut a rectangle of black fabric, and round the corners. The length will depend on how tall your child is.


2. Cut  a strip of the same fabric a couple inches wide and long enough to drape over your child’s neck – mine was about 11in.  Fold it in half and zig zag along the long side to sew it into a long tube.  Turn the tube right side out, like in the picture.


3. Attach one end of the tube to the top of the main piece of fabric with a zig zag stitch – near the corner.  This will be the strap to go around your child’s neck.


4. Attach velcro to the other end of the strap (you can sew it on or use fabric glue).  Hold it up to your child to see where the strap will fit comfortably around your child’s neck before attaching the other Velcro piece to the main piece of fabric.  When it’s done, it should look like the picture above.

**For safety purposes, I recommend using Velcro, not sewing on both ends of the strap. This will prevent the risk of choking.


5. Cut felt/knit/fleece pieces to make the screen of the iPod.  Sew them on or use fabric glue to attach.


6. I used silver glittery fabric paint to write the words.  You could also cut these out, but I don’t have many chances to get away with using some glitter on my boys’ clothes, so I went for it. ;)


This is one costume that I could probably even convince my hubby to wear!  Hmm... ;)

Thanks so much for having me, Andrea!  I love The Train to Crazy, so it’s a joy to be here today!  I hope you’ll hop over to my blog to see some of my own craziness.  If you’re feeling the fall weather like we are here, try my favorite potato leek soup and maybe sprucing up your sweater wardrobe with my pullover to ruffled cardigan refashion.  I hope you’ll join me!  See you soon!

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Handmade Dress Up: DIY Tinkerbell Costume Tutorial

Today we have a Tinkerbell costume tutorial from Wilflowers & Whimsy! You may also be interested in some of our other fun costume tutorials!

 

Peacock Tutu Tutorial

Butterfly Skirt Tutorial

Mermaid Costume Tutorial

Hi!  I'm April and I blog over at Wildflowers & Whimsy!  I am a SAHM, homeschooling mommy to three awesome kiddos.  I talk too much and too loud, drink too much coffee, forget things almost always.  I'm crazy about Audrey Hepburn, shoes...the higher the better, and anything with ruffles!  My blog is about everything from sewing to fashion to homeschooling to...well, pretty much whatever strikes my fancy at any given moment!  I love all wonderful friends I have made since starting my blog and would love for you to stop by and say hi!

I was super excited to participate in The Train to Crazy's Handmade Dress Up series! Dress up is something that is a part of daily life in our home. I love seeing what my kids put together! There's just something about seeing their creativity come out! And I love all the characters they come up with!

An obvious favorite for Sophie is Tinkerbell! Some of you might remember that I made her a Tink costume for Halloween last year, and it still gets quite a bit of use...sometimes even as pjs! So I thought it would be the perfect tutorial to share for the series. Here it is again in case you missed it.  

Here's the original.

 

What you'll need:

Knit/Cotton Fabric

Tulle

Elastic Thread

Fabric Marker

 

1) Cut out all the pieces

 

Bodice

(cut 1 from tulle and 1 from fabric)

12m/18m ~ 1 - 10" x 40"

2t/3t ~ 1- 11.5" x 41"

4t/5t ~ 1- 13" x 42"

 

Straps

1 ~ 2" x Width of Fabric

 

Bloomers

12m/18m ~ 1- 8.5" x 40"

2t/3t ~ 1- 9.5" x 41"

4t/5t ~ 1- 10.5" x 42"

 

Pixie Cut Tulle Strips

You will need approximately 60-80 strips. it just depends on how big the shorts are and how tightly you gather them. I suggest starting with about 60...you can always cut more. Only cut one of the short ends to a point

12m/18m ~ 11" x 6"

2t/3t ~ 12" x 6"

4t/5t ~ 13" x 6"

 

Seam allowance is 1/2" unless otherwise specified.

 

2) Assemble the bodice: With WRONG sides together, stitch tulle bodice to the cotton bodice along ONE of the long edges (this will be referred to as the top of the bodice from now on).

 

Press* the seam allowance toward the cotton side, and stitch the seam allowance down 1/4" from the original seam. Trim the seam allowance down close to the second line of stitching. Baste the tulle to the cotton on BOTH of the short sides.

 

Pin the short sides together; stitch. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/4"; finish the seam allowance. Press to one side. Baste the tulle to the cotton along the bottom edge.

 

* I usually press tulle on a polyester setting and have never had any trouble BUT it can melt so you may want to test first or use a pressing clothe or scrap of fabric over the tulle.

 

3) Make the bloomers: With RIGHT sides together, stitch the short sides of the shorts together; Trim the seam allowance down to 1/4"; finish the seam allowance. Press to one side.

 

Fix the seam so that it is the center back of the shorts. Then, from the bottom, measure up the seam 2"; mark it with a disappearing fabric marker. Then, measure 2.5" to either side of the seam and mark. Join the three points to form an arc and cut it out (you should be cutting both the front and back fabric).

 

With RIGHT sides facing stitch together with a 1/4" seam allowance; finish the seam; press towards the back.

 

Hem the bottom of the bloomer legs. I just did a rolled hem but a narrow hem would work well also.

 

4) Make the tulle skirt: You can do this one of two ways:

 

a) Set your stitch to the longest length, and lower your upper thread tension to 1. Stitch the tulle strips together along the top edges(the FLAT short edge) with a 1/4" seam allowance. Tie off the starting end and pull the bobbin thread at the other end to gather the tulle until the skirt is the same width as the shorts.

 

b) I use my gathering foot so that I can gather them and stitch them together at the same time. I just keep adding tulle strips until the skirt is the same width as the bloomers.

 

Either way, all you have to do is stitch across the top edge of each strip and when there is only about 1/2" left, overlap the next strip over the previous one.

 

5) Attach the skirt to the bloomers: With RIGHT sides together, baste the top edge of the skirt to the top edge of the bloomers with a 3/8" seam allowance. (you can just barely see the bloomers peeking out under the skirt...)

 

6) Put it together: With RIGHT sides together, match the center back seam of the bloomers to the center back seam of the bodice; stitch. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/4" and finish seam. Press the seam up toward the bodice and stitch the seam allowance down to the bodice 1/8 - 1/4" from the original seam.

 

Here's what it should look like.

 

7) Shir the bodice: Starting 1/2" from the top of the bodice, shir all the way around the bodice, and continue shirring rows 1/2" apart until you get to the bottom of the bodice. (If you need tips on shirring, you can check out this post)

 

8) Shir the bloomer legs: Run one row of shirring 1/2" from the bottom of each of the bloomer legs.

 

9) Make and attach straps: Fold and press the long edges to the center of the strap piece. Fold it in half again longways; press. Cut it in half so that you have two straps and edge stitch along the folded edges making sure to reinforce at the beginning and end of each stitch. Attach the straps to the front of the bodice on either side by stitching them in place at the first and second rows of shirring.

 

Done! Any questions?? Please ask them in the comments section so everyone can benefit.

 

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

Handmade Dress Up: DIY Potato Head Costume Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Like what you see? Support the guests by pinning their project or stumbling it!

 

Welcome Alison! Thank you for the Mr. & Mrs. Potato Head Costume Tutorial!

Hello friends!

 

 My name is Alison.  My blogging home is Oopsey Daisy.

I am thrilled to be here!  You see, I've been riding on the Train to Crazy for quite a while... Because I am the queen of oopsey daisies!  :) I like to sew, modpodge, craft,

decorate, photograph, hammer, paint, teach, and create.  Most of all, I love to

create things for the people I love. 

Fall is my favorite time of year, and I've been itching for Halloween for months!  In our house, we only watch one movie:  Toy Story.  So naturally, this year we are all dressing up as Toy Story characters!

 

And guess what?  

We're actually re-using the costumes we wore in February!  When my Little Man turned two, I threw him a Toy Story birthday party.  He dressed like Buzz Lightyear, and we asked all of our guests to dress like Toy Story characters, too!  

Mr. Oopsey Daisy and I dressed up like Mr. and Mrs. Potato Head!

 

 I sewed our costumes in 1 afternoon, and they were a piece of cake.  Are you ready to learn how to make your own?

Let's get started!

I did a few measurements on my husband including:

*Distance from shoulder to shoulder

* Waist circumference

*Distance from neck to knee

 

I purchased 2 1/3 yards of tan felt--that's 84 inches!  

Once I folded it in half lengthwise, I had my Mr. Potato Head!  He just needed a little trimming!  So I followed the measurements above to cut out an A-line shape. 

At the top of the fold, I found the center, and I cut out a 6-inch semi-circle to create the hole for the head. 

 

Next, I cut out Mr. Potato Head's eyes, nose, mustache, mouth, and ears from felt.  (I studied pictures of Mr. Potato Head while I did this.)  I pinned these on to the front of Mr. Potato Head.

 

Next, I sewed the facial features right on to the front. (Be sure to unfold the felt at this point.)

 

Then I pinned the right sides together.  But before sewing the sides together, I folded up the bottom edge by 1/2 inch.

 

I pressed the fold to create the casing for the elastic.  Here is a quick run-down...  

Once I had the elastic sewed in, I sewed up the sides.

I left the top 13 inches unsewn for the arm holes.  Just underneath the arm holes, I sewed in ears on each side.

In the back, I cut a 4-inch slit and sewed on Velcro to close it up.  This gives a little breathing room for slipping it on and off.

 

I think this Mr. Potato Head is pretty handsome!  :)

 

And here is my Mrs. Potato Head version!

So our family is all set for Halloween, and I can't wait!

 Andrea, this has been so much fun.  Thank you for having me!  I hope you'll come stop by Oopsey Daisy and say hello!

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Handmade Dress Up: DIY Woodland Creature Masks Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Like what you see? Please PIN it or Stumble it! Thanks!

 Welcome Kin! Thank you for the Woodland Creature (bear, duck, rabbit, blue bird) Masks Tutorials!

Hi Train to Crazy Readers!  My name is Kim and I blog over at seven thirty three - - - a creative blog.  You'll find all sorts of crafty projects going on over there.  Currently I am working on my daughters 11th "Rock Star Glam" birthday party and will be sharing lots of party ideas and favors in the next coming weeks, so stop on by and sign up to follow so you don't miss out on the fun!.  

I would also love for you to check out some of my popular projects, such as my Sock Cupcakes Tutorial:

or my Weekly Menu Planner with Grocery List Free Printable:

Maybe you are planning a birthday party and need some great birthday ideas.  One of my recent parties was for my daughters 2nd birthday:

What 2 year old girl doesn't like Pinkalicious?!?  I have tons of free printables for this theme.

I also offer blog design for the Blogger platform, so if you are thinking of spiffying (that is a word you know... at least in my vocabulary!) up your blog, check out my portfolio!  I would love to work with you.

Today I am going to share with you how to make woodland creature masks!

Last year I hosted a  camping themed baby shower for my SIL and what camping trip isn't complete without an animal or two?  The little kids at the party filled these out perfectly!

This tutorial is showing you how to make a Bear Mask, but see the other pictures above for other creatures!  All were created with the same template with tweaks here and there.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

2 sheets of Felt (2 coordinating colors)

Elastic

Wonder Under or similar Fusible Web (optional)

First you will want to make a template on paper.  I just freehanded one, cut it out and measured it against my sons face to make sure it fit.  I also marked the eyes at the same time and cut those out.

Next you will want to iron your fusible web onto one of the pieces of felt (the interfacing will create a sturdier mask, but I only used it on two of my masks and didn't have a problem with the others)  Trace your mask template onto the paper of the fusible web, remove the paper backing and cut it out.  Now trace your mask again and cut out the second piece.

Iron the two pieces together. On the back of the mask (the part that will touch your childs face, trace the eyes - I did this BEFORE I ironed the pieces together and ended up having the marks transfer to my ironing board cover - OOPS!).

Cut out the inner ear pieces.  Sew them onto the mask with a zigzag stitch (you can do this BEFORE you iron the two pieces together if you don't want to see the stitch on the back of the mask).

Zigzap stitch the entire edge of your mask.  Cut out the eyes and zigzag stitch around them.  Measure the elastic against your childs head and sew it onto your mask (make sure it is nice and secure), and now you are done! 

FYI: I also attemped to add the elastic before sewing the edges, which is doable, but I didn't mind seeing the elastic on the back of the mask since it doesn't show when the child is wearing it.

I managed to break my bobbin holder half way through the masks so switched to handsewing... although it took longer it was still just as easy - so no machine required!

 For the duck and blue bird masks, I cut out a triangle for the beak and inserted it between the two pieces of the mask at the nose curve and just sewed around the edge of the mask as normal.

(Yes, that is me in the top right picture... Although I'm having second thoughts now that I see it up here!)

Happy Sewing!

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Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY No Sew Cape Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Perhaps you're ready to try your hand at sewing a costume from a costume pattern or tutorial? You'll find a new tutorial for a dress up costume every day right here! Whether your an avid DIY'er or just looking for something fun to try, please subscribe or follow on Twitter or Facebook so you don't miss the other 27 bloggers and their wonderful tutorials! Like what you see? Please PIN it or Stumble it! Thanks!

Next up, a N0 Sew Cape tutorial from Natasha at Little Pink Monster! 

Hello Crazy Train passengers! I was so excited when Andrea asked me to be a part of her handmade dress-up week because if there's one thing we know how to do in my house it's dress-up. My 2 yr old Samantha is OBSESSED. Her teachers don't even notice anymore when she comes to school in full princess garb. Dress up clothes can be mighty pricy however my friend, not to mention they're usually made of some crap-ola polyester blend. Ick. I think this no-sew superhero cape is a great way to venture into the world of creating your own clothes because as the name states, it's no sew! Should take you 10 minutes, tops.

Here’s the easy, NO SEW, superhero cape I made for them:

All you need are a few basic supplies from your local fabric store.

1 & 1/2 yards of red knit fabric, (knit is like t-shirt material & the ends won’t fray) 1 yard of red ribbon & scissors.

Lay your fabric out & along one of the long ends fold the edge of the fabric over 1″. With your scissors make several snips in the fold, 1 inch apart, down the length of the fabric. Open the fold & you’ll now have several slits to weave your ribbon in & out of. After the ribbon is woven through all the slit gather the fabric towards the center. Take each end of ribbon & loop it back through the last slit & knot. To keep your ribbon ends from fraying you can quickly run the edge over a flame & it will seal them.

That’s it! Very simple, very fun & for a very good cause!

 

Thanks again for having me Andrea! If anyone is looking for some more dress-up posts here are a few more I have to share with ya... you can also click on the tutorials link on Little Pink Monster for tons more DIY & craft tutorials

No-Sew 10 Minute Tu-Tu, DIY Cinderella Dress, Pom Pom Stuffed Tu-Tu

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Handmade Dress Up Series: DIY Belle Princess Dress Costume Tutorial

Welcome to the Handmade Dress Up Series! Dress up is such a fun, creative outlet for children (and adults!). Perhaps you're ready to try your hand at sewing a costume from a costume pattern or tutorial? 

You might also be interested in one of these!

Peacock Tutu Tutorial

Butterfly Skirt Tutorial

Mermaid Costume Tutorial

Hello and Happy Handmade Dress Up month, Train to Crazy readers!  We're Adrianna and Susan and we blog over at Crafterhours. 

 

We have 4 girls between the two of us and most of our sewing is for them, but we throw in a project for ourselves, our houses, and even our spouses from time to time too.  Come over and say hi sometime!  Just so we don't sound like we have multiple personality disorder, Adrianna will be writing this post.  Let's continue in first person prose, shall we?

Today I'm sharing a tutorial for our version of those oh so popular princess dresses.  My girls pretty much live in them all day, whether they're prancing about the house, eating, sleeping, or jumping in the mud puddle that always forms after our daily 4 pm rain.  After the first few stains, rips, and complaints of itchy polyester and sweaty stretch velvet, I figured enough money had been thrown down the drain and decided to make my own.  In the interest of making them as comfy and wearable as possible, I used soft and breathable cotton knit.

This tutorial is for the Belle dress, with the assumption that if you can make this one, you can make any of 'em.

 

 

Let's get started already!

You will need:

- Your trusty peasant dress pattern and directions (we reference this free peasant top tutorial a ton on our blog, but really any peasant dress pattern will do, and we know there are about a million of them.  I think the Sweet Dress pattern from Leila and Ben is a popular one if you don't want to do the guess work.)

- 2 yards of yellow lightweight knit fabric (jersey is a good option)

- 1 yard of a sheer yellow or white fabric with lots of drape (nothing stiff like tulle)

- lots of 1/4 inch elastic.  lots.

Step 1: Cut out your peasant dress pieces.  The pieces below are still folded in half, and obviously you will need 2 sleeves.  As you can see, I cropped the sleeve so it would just be a slight cap sleeve.  The bodice pieces should be cut just past the natural waist.  For the front bodice piece (pictured on the left), be sure to cut a lower neckline and a pointed center.

Step 2:  For the skirt, you'll need to cut a lot of rectangles.  Use at least 8.  The more you use, the fuller your skirt will be.  The length of the rectangle will be the length from the natural waist to the ankle plus 6 inches.  I used a width of 7 inches and I thought it worked pretty well.

 

Step 3: Cut all of your rectangles so they are tapered on the sides by about 2 inches and round out the bigger end, which will become your hem.

Step 4:  Estimate on your skirt panels where you want the swags to sit.  Mine are about 11 inches down. Measure across the skirt panel at that point.  Cut rectangles from your sheer fabric with a width of your skirt panel width plus 1 inch.  The length of the rectangle should be about 12 inches.  Fold your rectangle down (so your 12 inch side is now 6 inches).  Cut the bottom edges so they make a crescent.  That was painful.  Just look at the picture:

Step 5: With right sides together, sew the crescent closed and flip it right side out.  Press.

Step 6:  Pin each crescent to each skirt panel at the same height, making sure to scrunch up the swag on the sides.  Since your swag is slightly wider than the panel, it should gape a little bit in the middle as well.

Step 7: Sew all the panels together, catching the edges of the swags as you go.

Step 8: Sew your bodice and sleeves together using normal peasant top construction directions.

Step 9: Gather the top of the skirt to match the bottom of the bodice and sew them together.

Step 10: Finish the sleeves and neckline with elastic per peasant top directions.

Step 11: Cut 1/4 inch elastic to the length of the skirt panels minus 6 inches.  Pin the elastic to the waist seam on top of one of the skirt panel seams.

Step 12: Pin the other end of the elastic to the hem, again right over the skirt panel seam.

Step 13: Stretching the elastic taut, sew down the elastic, directly over the seam.  Once you've done that for each of the skirt panel seams, it'll bunch up and start really looking Belle-ish.

Step 14: Using the same sheer fabric as you did for the swags, form a circular tube of fabric.  First take a rectangle that is 5 inches x the measurement around the upper shoulders plus a couple inches.  Sew the rectangle right sides together down the long side so you have a long tube. Flip the tube right side out.  Fold the edges of one end to the wrong side and press.  Put the edges of the other side into that side and topstitch down, forming a circular tube.

Step 15: Tack one side of that tube down at the neckline of your dress, centered on the shoulder.  Find the opposite side of your tube and do the same thing on the other side.

Step 16: At the front and back, scrunch the tube up and sew down directly at the center of the bodice.

Step 17 (optional): I made a little rose by rolling up a tube of knit fabric and hand sewing it to the center front bodice.

And you're done!  That was pretty easy, and this is pretty much the hardest one, due to the skirt. 

Just change up the colors and a few of the embellishments and you've got Sleeping Beauty:

Or Snow White:

And don't forget that princes like to be comfy too.  (Tomboys dressed as Prince Phillip, that is)

Thanks so much for having us today, Andrea!  We can't wait to see the handmade dress ups that everyone else has in store!

Check out the other Handmade Dress Up tutorials!

DY(S)G: Guest Tutorial- How to Sew Ottobre Patterns

Please welcome Melanie from A Sewing Journal! Melanie has a wonderful blog and is always sewing beautiful things for her girls. She's here to take the mystery out of Ottobre patterns!

Hi there, I'm Melanie and I blog over at A Sewing Journal. I have three girls (this year all attending school) ranging in age from 4 years to 10. I like making clothes for them for fun, as a creative outlet. I love that they all still want mom to make them clothes, so I will enjoy it while I can. (Though, I have to admit, it's getting a little challenging to make clothes for my oldest.) 

I love Ottobre Design sewing patterns. They are stylish and offer a large variety of styles and sizes in each issue. Each issue includes clothing patterns for babies to tweens so there is a lot of information packed in there. While you could say that Ottobre Design doesn't have a lot of instructions, I would argue that all of the important and necessary information is there for you. I think the patterns are great for advanced beginners and up, but also for what I'd call adventurous beginners. If you're not afraid to look something up in a book or online when you come across something that you are unfamiliar with, well, go for it! Also, there are patterns in each magazines that are more difficult and some that are easier. Start by choosing a pattern that uses techniques you are familiar with, or maybe that introduce you to one new thing instead of multiple new techniques. Follow along as I show you how to decipher (it's pretty easy, really) an Ottobre Design sewing pattern. 

This is the information page. So they don't have to repeat everything 40 times, most basic information is here. There are no cutting layouts, so this is where you read up on that and more. As with most European patterns, seam allowances are not included, but hem allowances are. Read this page before you get started.

1. Measure your child's height in centimeters.
2. I like this part that reminds me how to determine the right size. I struggle with this all the time as my kids' measurements never seem to correlate nicely with the sizes listed on patterns and in books.
3. When choosing your pattern, look for the little diagrams on the page, usually in the corner or along the side of the photos. These tell you the sizes for those clothing pieces.
4. The diagram also gives you the pattern number.

1. This is the pattern instructions. That's it, it's all there. Short, clear and concise. Along the top, from left to right, you see a drawing of the clothing; drawings of the pattern pieces (see #2, too), instructions for the pattern pieces including how many to cut; which pattern sheet to use and the color of your numbers and lines (more on this in a bit); and your materials (listed in centimeters). There is a conversion chart in the magazine, but I prefer just to measure everything in centimeters when using Ottobre patterns otherwise I keep forgetting whether a number I wrote down was in inches or centimeters. Below that are the instructions for cutting and constructing.
2. This is not the pattern I'm using, but I wanted to show you how a more complicated pattern has more information. For example, the parts shaded in grey are to be interfaced.
3. Here are the instructions for the pattern pieces. We need pattern sheet C and our markings are in red.

1. Look, there's C, right on top! Take note that the reverse side of the sheets have different letters.
2. This is pattern sheet C unfolded. Don't freak out! There's a system here, really. (I think this is when Ottobre loses a few people). Don't feel lost, this makes sense. Can you imagine how much paper they would have to use for each issue if they didn't overlap the pattern pieces? This really makes a lot of sense.
3. Remember how we need pattern sheet C and the color red? When we look along the bottom of the pattern sheet we see a series of multicolored numbers. We need numbers 1, 2, 3 (the numbers of our pattern) in red. There are 1 and 2.
4. We trace our finger straight up from the numbers on the bottom and find the corresponding numbers and lines on the sheet. 

1. I like to use low tack tape to secure my pattern and tracing paper. I usually use Swedish tracing paper or Kwik Trace paper to trace patterns. I just use a pencil and ruler for the straight lines. 
2. With a bit of concentration the lines are easy to follow. I do not add seam allowances at this point as I feel with all those lines it's just too distracting for me. I add them on the fabric.
3. Don't forget to check the key to see what the different lines mean. Ottobre does not use dashed lines and dots to indicate different sizes as you sometimes see on American patterns. All sizes use a solid line and the dashed lines indicate something else, like fold lines or grainlines.
4. Be sure to label your pattern pieces with the piece number, size and pattern name and number.

1. The nice thing about Swedish tracing paper (and Kwik Trace paper) is you don't need pins or pattern weights. They make a friction (so to speak) with the fabric and don't move around on you.
2. I add a half inch seam allowance (oops, I guess I don't do everything in centimeters!), just because I think it's easier than 3/8ths. You are free to make your seam allowance whatever works best for you. I usually use tailors chalk, but again, there are many different types of marking devices. Use what works best for you. (And remember, seam allowances are not included, but hem allowances are. It's always best to remind yourself of this).
3. I like to cut my pieces out of the fabric with a rotary cutter. I'm just not very good with scissors.

This is as far as I'm taking you here. Putting together the garment just requires following the instructions, which are very clear. Let me know if you have any questions about Ottobre Design sewing patterns, I'd be happy to help!

If you'd like to see a review of the specific pattern I used, head over to my blog: A Sewing Journal. Here's a picture of the final product.

Find Ottobre Design Magazines here.

Thanks so much Melanie! I think we're all ready to dive into Ottobre now!

Don't forget to check out the Flickr group for Dress Your School Girl & Boy! 

Other DY(S)G posts

 

DY(S)G: Guest Tutorial- Girls' Fabric Corsage

Please welcome Kirstin from Kojo Designs! You are probably familiar with Kirstin's blog she shares with her sister but if not, go take a look! It is full of great ideas!   

Hey friends! I'm Kirstin, half of the sister team that blogs over at kojodesigns, and I'm so excited to be here today! I love (love love love) everything about Back to School. As a once-teacher, I love seeing racks of school supplies- what an exciting time of year! And even though my kiddos are still too little to be heading off to classrooms this fall, that doesn't mean that we can't get in on the Back to School fun, right?  

This fabric flower corsage was inspired by the gorgeousness at EmersonMade, but scaled down to little girl size. I love it that it can add a little visual interest to a dress or lovely up a cardigan without having to permanently alter the garment. Ready to make one for the little girl in your life? You'll need: -long thin strips of fabric (monochromatic, or in a few different colors/patterns) -a circle of felt (this will be the backing) -a button (or a cluster of little pearls) for the center -a pin  

Cut your strips of fabric into 5" or 6" segments.  

Fold each small strip in half and stitch to the felt.  

Continue until you have a circle of fabric strips.  

Move in toward the center of the circle and repeat.  

Sew a button in the center.  

Hot glue an extra piece of felt (to cover all of your stitching) and a pin to the back of your corsage...

...and pin on a your little Back to Schooler (though, mine isn't quite old enough for school just yet)! Thanks again for having us, Andrea... and happy back to school friends! Come say hi anytime at kojodesigns!

Thanks for the cute tutorial Kirstin! It will look great on a girl of any age!

Don't forget to check out the DY(S)G & B Flickr group! It already has some great outfits added. It has me excited to sew for older kids!

Check out the other Dress Your School Girl posts!

 

DY(S)B: Boy Clothes Tutorial Roundup

Upcycled Boy Hat by I Am Momma, Boxer Brief by Sew a Straight Line

90 Minute Shirt by Made, Miniaturize a Men's Shirt by Lil Blue Boo

Boy Belt by The Mother Huddle, Ringer T by Crafterhours

Oversized Hoodie by Boy Trifecta, Cargo Pockets by 21 Wale

Buckle Waistband by Sew a Straight Line, Personalized Emblem by Living With Punks

Do you have a favorite boy tutorial?

Football Softie Tutorial

I'm sure you've all been stuck at one point or another wondering what to make for someone's new little baby. You want to make something that will be useful, cute, and get used. Many handmade items don't always fit into those categories. But here is something that does. The football softie tutorial!

The perfect way to use up some scraps of fabric and ribbon. I used flannel scraps here but quilting fabric or even minky would work great. I think the taggies on the football make the toy super cute and a bit more interesting for babies. Of course, you could omit those and it would still be just as useful! I've also added jingle bells inside the football but feel free to omit those as well.

Gather your supplies:

• Print the football template, or draw your own
• Cut 4 pieces for the football (I like to use freezer paper to get the job done quickly)
• Cut 1 ribbon 6.5" long (if you use a different size football cut ribbon accordingly)
• Cut 8 ribbons 3" long
• Jingle bells (3-5)
• Cut a small scrap about 2" x 4"
• Stuffing

1. Pin ribbons onto one piece of the football 

Turn ends under on the center ribbon. Loop the other ribbons and tuck them under the center ribbon. Sew center ribbon along edges.

2. Sew the football pieces together, right sides together. Use a 1/4" seam allowance. Stop sewing 1/4" from the ends.

3. Sew the next pieces of the football together (right sides). Edges should join as so:

(notice how the points meet in the middle and don't overlap?)

4. Leave a 2-3" opening when joining the final pieces. This will allow you to turn the football right side out and stuff.

5. Turn right side out

6. Use the small scrap of fabric to encase the jingle bells. It doesn't have to be pretty it just needs to hold them together.

7. Stuff the football, placing the jingle bell pouch in the middle of the stuffing.

8. Hand sew the opening closed.

And finally, present your special taggie football to a little special guy or gal.

Circle Pocket Dress or Shirt

Welcome to The Train To Crazy! If you find this tutorial useful I hope you'll subscribe, follow me on twitter, facebook or Google+! Don't forget to check out Make It Wear It, the weekly blog party to showcase all those clothing items and accessories you've been making.

Hi everyone! I'm over at Celebrate The Madness today sharing my Circle Pocket Dress. Cute right?

It's a simple way to jazz up a favorite shirt or dress pattern. Or maybe the Go To Dress?

Make a few.

Go check out the Circle Pocket Dress tutorial!

Inspired by this shirt on etsy

Summer Clothes Tutorials Roundup

That time of the year is upon us. Well, those of us in the Northern Hemisphere anyway. Time to sew SUMMER CLOTHES!! 

I hope this list will come in handy for those of you participating in Kids Clothes Week Challenge over at Elsie Marley. All of the tutorials listed below are FREE so enjoy.

Boys' Tops

Muscle Shirt by Zaaberry

Ringer Shirt by Crafterhours

Sleeveless Onsie by Omi Creates

Little Boy's Shirt from Men's Shirt by Made by Rae

Interactive Boy Shirt by Sugar Bee Crafts

Boys' Shorts & Pants

Hunky Pool Boy Shorts by Hello Marzipan

Dishtowel Shorts by Dollar Store Crafts

Basic Shorts by Ikat Bag

Fold-up Cuff Pants by Ikat Bag

Boys' Rompers

Summertime Romper by Pick Up Some Creativity

Shortalls by Ikat Bag on Made by Rae

Quick & Dirty Romper via Craftster

Girls Skirts, Shorts, Pants & Capris

Quick & Easy No Hem Skirt by Hickety Pickety Handmade

Couture Skirt by Aesthetic Nest

Ruched Leggings (made from t-shirt) on luvinthemommyhood by Made

Cuffed Shorts by Craftiness is Not Optional

Diaper Cover by Make It and Love It

Skirt with Built in Shorts by The Long Thread

Basic Shorts by Ikat Bag

Skirts Cheat Sheet by Ikat Bag

Ruffle Leg Pants by The Sewing Dork

Baby Ruffle Bum Bloomers by The Sewing Dork

Tulip Pants by Featherty Sews on Sewing In No Man's Land

Girls' Tops

Elliot Sunsuit (onesie with tie straps) by Savvy Stitch 

Playful Days Double Layer Top (or Dress) by From an Igloo

Apron Top by Everyday Chaos

Ringer Shirt by Crafterhours

The Scalloped Shirt by Craftiness is Not Optional

Sleeveless Onesie by Omi Creates

Summer Lovin' Top by Craftiness is Not Optional

Curious About Chocolate Top by Happy Together on No Big Dill

Little Girls' Tunic with Tank Top by Tea Rose Home

Easy Breezy Tank by Craftiness is Not Optional

Girls' Rompers & Dresses

Big Girls' Romper by Crafterhours

Front Tie Spring Dress by Make It and Love It

Ruffle Sunsuit by Little Betty

Mod Sailor Sundress by Happy Together

Swim Cover Up by From an Igloo

Terry Cloth Tunic & Bloomers by Samster Mommy

Summertime Romper by Pick Up Some Creativity

You might find my BEST Dress Tutorials list helpful as well.

Will you be sewing clothes for Summer??

Tutorial: The 60 Minute Dress

Warning: do not attempt this dress if you are a perfectionist OR are uncomfortable "winging it"

If you do dare, this is what you'll get

(shirt version)

(dress version)

I have some tips on how to make your adult version.

Measure your subject:

Cut rectangle of fabric by the width and length you measured.

Fold in half one way, then fold in half the other way so the very middle of the fabric is folded at a point.

Cut head hole by dividing head circumference by 4, then cut head hole as pictured. Smaller is better. You can always cut it larger if necessary.

Your fabric will now look like this:

Now here is the "winging it" part.

Start at edge and sew arm hole the turn a 90 degree angle and sew down to bottom. 

Can you believe it will now look like this?

Hints:

• make arm hole big enough
• the "armpit" of the shirt should be 1"-3" away from the body so the dress is a big without the belt. 
• slightly angle side seam back away from body. The more you angle the seam back toward side edge, the fuller the dress will be.
• The heavier the knit, the less "flowy" it will be. On an adult I'd recommend a lightweight knit!! Mine was too heavy. It also doesn't flatter my 5 week post baby body. 
• Try it on, fix if necessary! Too wide? take 3 minutes and make it less wide!

Finish neck, sleeve and bottom of shirt with rolled hem or however you want. Knit doesn't even "need" to be finished.

Finish the dress with a belt. I used a piece of knit a couple inches smaller than the waist. Sewed the ends together and finished edges with a rolled hem.

What do you think? Easy, but do you dare try? I'd love to see pictures if you make one!

Sew an odd sized sheet: Quick & Easy Sheet Tutorial

There are so many crib sheet tutorials available. But what if you have an odd sized crib, pack and play, or basinet? What if you just want a quick method?

I have this great portable crib that I've used with babies 2 through 4. It allows the current occupant of the regular crib to take her time outgrowing it while the baby gets a cozy sleeping spot in mom and dad's room. The problem is, it is difficult to find sheets for this size of crib, let alone cute sheets. 

What if you just want the quickest method and don't care to spend time making a casing for the elastic that won't be seen anyway? Well, look no further. This is your quick and easy tutorial.

I've made this easy sheet tutorial for all your different sized crib needs! It is attached it as a PDF. Go ahead and download it so you'll have it when you need it.

Download Easy Crib Sheet Instructions

Please keep in mind that this tutorial was intended for thinner mattresses. If your mattress is thicker than 2 or 3 inches, please add to the length and width accordingly.

Any questions?

Linking HERE

Diaper Bag Tutorial & Pattern Roundup

Want to make a diaper bag? There are so many great patterns and options out there! Don't settle for a boring bag from your local big box store!

Free Tutorials:

Diaper Bag w/ a divider by Wherehouse Fabrics Inc.

Hip Mama Diaper Bag by A Mingled Yarn

Angela's Diaper bag at Moda Bakeshop by The Polkadot Chair

Diaper Bag by Sew Much Ado

The Detour Diaper Bag by Make Baby Stuff

Customizable Diaper Bag by Make Baby Stuff

Anna's Diaper Bag by CoCoj Designs

Adorable Patterns:

Mary Jane Oversized Tote by Handmade Therapy (love this!)

Nappy Bag by Amy Butler

The Diaper Bag by Craft Apple

The Bellanca bag by Lila Tueller 

Do you have a favorite diaper bag pattern or tutorial?

Check out my other tutorial roundups!

You might also be interested in:

Crib Sheet Tutorial

Little Cap Sew Along

Baby in The Hood Pattern

Don't miss new patterns!

Guest Post: Moses basket bedding tutorial

Welcome to week 2 of Sewing for BABY month! Today we have a fabulous guest poster. I hope you get a chance to check out the tutorial she prepared and see all the wonderful things she does on her blog! Thanks for stopping by Cheryl! 

Hi Everyone!  I'm Cheryl from:

I'm a homeschooling mom of 3 who started sewing & crafting two years ago and hasn't looked back since!  My blog is all about my adventures in making fun stuff on a little budget and what I've learned along the way.  Here are just a few things: Shop Around Felt Playhouse

Fabric Garden

Pretty Plaits & Leia Hairdo Hats

Today I'm sharing my tutorial for making your own Moses Basket Bedding.

The baskets themselves are pretty inexpensive, but if you want some pretty bedding, whoa Nelly, are they pricey!  So I've got a quick & easy way to make your own so you can have the designer look without the designer price tag.  And using less than 2 yards of fabric!!

Just click here to get the full step-by-step tutorial.  Thanks so much for letting me stop by Andrea!!

The cutest lunch box icepack tutorial

Meet Larri from Seams Inspired. She claims she isn't Supermom, but I'm sure she's no slouch either! She's a homeschooling, public schooling, sewing, quilting, loving mom of 3. Her blog is always a pleasure to read. She writes not only about her sewing creations but her faith and a bit about her family. 

Today Larri has the perfect Back to School project for us! Her Ice Pack Cover w/ Pocket for Love Notes is such a fun way to keep kids' lunches cool and put a smile on their faces! I can imagine any child would love to open their lunch box to find a special note from mom.

Here's all you'll need for a 5 1/2" x 4" icepack:

2 pieces of main fabric: 6 1/2" x 5"

2 pieces of fusible fleece: 6 1/2" x 5"

1 piece of contrasting fabric: 3 1/2" x 5"

Bias Trim: 11"

Hook & Loop tape (velcro): about an inch

Now hop on over to Seams Inspired for the full tutorial! Your kids will thank you! 

Go To Dress Pattern

Welcome to The Train To Crazy! If you find this tutorial useful I hope you'll subscribe, follow me on twitter, facebook or Google+! Don't forget to check out Make It Wear It, the weekly blog party to showcase all those clothing items and accessories you've been making.

After my obsession with this pattern passed, I set my sights on a another "go to" knit dress for my girls. When Kathy suggested I make a dress with long sleeves, I knew she was right. So, without further ado, I present, the Go To Dress.

The perfect dress for cool evenings and long winters. With long sleeves, a shoulder ruffle and an empire waist, how could you go wrong? What little girl wouldn't like a closet full of these? Comfortable and cute!

Perfect for adventures...

 
The possibilities are endless. 

Pair with some cute leggings or tights if you want, or not.

Make them subdued. Or wild.

Or just use what you have lying around. Mix up the fabrics with polka dots and stripes, add an applique or fun pockets, use an old t-shirt or sweater. Be creative.

Mostly just have fun with this Go To Dress!  Whip up a few for all the little girls in your life.

UPDATE: This pattern now comes in sizes 12 mo- 12 years but I can no longer offer it free. You'll find 3 lengths, 7 sleeve options, 4 pocket options and a hood! It is bigger and better and you can buy it at Go To Patterns!

 

Problem Solving {hooded beach towel backpack tutorial}

 

Welcome to The Train To Crazy! If you find this tutorial useful I hope you'll subscribe, follow me on twitter, facebook or Google+! Don't forget to check out Make It Wear It, the weekly blog party to showcase all those clothing items and accessories you've been making.

Our weather has cooled off a bit lately. We still brave the beach. It doesn't bother us northerners. 

Couldn't be cuter, right? And how about those backpacks? That's right, a hooded towel that folds up into a neat little backpack. This has solved my problem. My main problem. You know, the one where I don't have 3 sets of hands to carry things and children. 

Even the baby gets her own. It is lightweight enough for her to wear it comfortably. In fact, she doesn't just wear it to the beach. It's now an accessory...

It's important to snuggle up in a warm towel when you are at the beach on a less than hot day in June.

And once at the beach...

... we played in the sand. Because playing in the water on a less than hot day in June isn't as much fun as we'd like.    

Want to make your own Hooded Beach Towel Backpack? I've made a tutorial so you can whip up a few. Enjoy!

You might also find some of my other tutorials useful! Check them out!

Related articles

15 pajama and nightgown tutorials and patterns

Handmade Costumes: 65 DIY Tutorials

Pattern: A false pocket

A little false pocket on the back of pants adds a great, simple detail. Spend an extra 30 minutes on this one, you'll be glad you did! While it is easiest to attach the pocket before assembling the pants, it is possible to add them to existing pants.

This pattern is intended to be for child sized pants but can easily be enlarged for larger sizes. If you are reading this in your feed reader you will need to click through to get the pattern.

Download Pattern- False Pocket

Enjoy! 

How to make a notepad

Making a notepad at home is easy. Here is how.

Gather your supplies.

• Paper. Reuse paper or print out some cute to-do list or coloring pages. 
• 2 rulers. You can use 2 wood blocks or shingles as well.
• 2 or 3 binder clips. You can also use clamps if you are using wood blocks.
• Paintbrush.
• Padding compound, also known as notebook adhesive. Professional padding compound makes great notepads with the perfect binding and cleans up easily.
• Cardboard. You can buy it or use an old cereal box.

Make a notepad!

1. Now, cut your paper to the same size, along with your cardboard. 
2. Straighten the paper along the edge you are going to bind. 
3. Put a ruler on either side and secure with binder clips to hold paper in place. Use a small paintbrush or foam brush and paint a thin layer or padding compound on the edge of the paper. 
4. Secure with another binder clip if necessary.
5. Let dry.

That's it!

My ladybug

My daughter changed her mind about her Halloween costume 3 days before Halloween. I searched for ladybug costume ideas and came up with a few cute examples. I couldn't find anything that was quick and easy and used what I had around the house so I invented my own. This method could be used for any type of dress up wings and took less than an hour to make. Most of the materials were repurposed.

What you will need:

1 old red t-shirt (or red knit, felt or fleece fabric)

1 small piece of black fabric (or old t-shirt or sweater)

28" of elastic (I used 1/2" width)

Old cereal box

Heavy stabilizer, or something equivalent.

Wonder under or similar for applique

Making the wings

Trace the shape of the wings onto the cereal box. Cut out one wing then use that as a template to trace the other wing so they are exactly the same shape. My wings were basically a semi-circle with a bit of a change up at the bottom. You could use a plain semi-circle and be just fine though.

 

Then use your cardboard as a template for your fabric. Using a pen (a fabric pen is preferred but it really doesn't matter) trace the shape of your wings onto your fabric. I used a men's XL t-shirt and had plenty of fabric. I put the template's straight edge on the fold so I only had to make one cut for each wing.

DO NOT CUT ALONG YOUR MARKED LINE! Cut at least a half an inch around your marked line. You will be sewing directly on that line you drew.

Trace 8 small circles onto your wonder under. I used a kids' cup as my template. Iron the wonder under onto your black fabric. Cut out the circles and iron them on your red wing fabric. Note: The first time I did this I was not paying enough attention and put the dots on the front of one of the wings and the back of the other. Oops. Pay attention.

Sew around the edge of the circles with a zigzag stitch. I recommend using a tear away stabilizer on the back of the fabric if you are using knits to prevent puckering. If you don't have a stabilizer any old scrap of fabric will work. Just cut out a piece a bit larger than your circle and put it on the underside of the fabric. 

Next, fold the wing fabric, wrong sides together and put the cardboard sandwiched in between. I sewed the wings up around the edges, sewing on my marked line) and then trimmed the fabric.

Next cut 2 rectangular pieces of the red fabric and 2 pieces of the heavy stabilizer. In a pinch, lightweight cardboard could work instead of the stabilizer. It won't be as flexible but it will keep the wings from sagging. In reality, no kid would know the difference.

Put the stabilizer in between the red fabric and sew around the edges. Trim the edges close to the seam.

Next cut the elastic into two 14" pieces. I made a casing for my elastic but that isn't necessary. 

Now lay the wings down, dot side down and place this connector piece in between them where you want. Position the elastic and then sew it all together. This is how I placed mine.

That's it! You're done. Now you have ladybug wings!

Flat Front Pants Tutorial

This one is so exciting!  I can barely contain myself.  I made these pants in, wait for it... an hour!!  Can you believe it?  I found this basic tutorial and decided to try it and came up with my own improvements.  It is easy to convert this tutorial into a fully elastic waist pant.  See the comments in steps 9 and 10. 

What you'll need:

• A pair of pants that fits well (to make the pattern)
• Pattern paper, large tissue paper or a roll of wrapping paper 
• A pen
• Fabric scissors (and scissors to cut the paper as well)
• 3/4" elastic for waistband.  I prefer the no roll kind.
• Fabric & thread to match.  Feel free to reuse fabric from old garments, just make sure you have enough.

Making the pattern:

1.  Roll out your wrapping paper and turn your pants inside out.  Put your pants on it like so...

Notice this is the front of the pant sticking out.  See how I expose the crotch and leg seems on the left side?  Trace along the pants on the left.  Mark the top and bottom but remember you'll have to add to the pattern later to accommodate seems.

2.  Now pick the pants up and adjust the pants so that the backside of the pant is exposed, like so... Make sure the bottom of the legs are even with where the bottom of the legs were on the previous markings.  The waist will most likely be uneven, that is fine.  Most pants have a lower rise in front than in back to accommodate for the booty.

Trace along the right side of the pant and then pick the pants up.  

3.  Add an inch and a half to the top of the pattern and about an inch to the bottom.  Cut the pattern out.  It will look something like this.

Great!  You have the hardest part done.  Don't worry if it looks a little off.  It won't be symmetrical.

4.  Lay out your fabric.  It is important to make sure it has been washed and preferably ironed.  Pin the pattern to the fabric and cut it out.  Make two pieces. (one for each leg)

5.  Put pieces right sides together (that means the "pretty side" or the "finished side" together).  Pin around the edges of the crotch portion.  Sew both sides of the crotch together.  Do not sew down the legs yet!  You can finish the seems by using pinking sheers.

6.  Turn the pants like so...

Then pin the inside seems of the legs and sew them up!  Finish the seem with the pinking sheers.

7.  Make the elastic casing at the top of the pants by folding down the top 1/4", iron, then fold down another 7/8" and iron.  I usually don't measure I just eyeball it. 

8. This is not a necessary step but I find it to be very helpful!  Make a tag so you know which is the back and which is the front.  This helps kids figure it out on their own as well.  I cut a 1" piece of ribbon, fold it in half and pin it like so... (make sure it is in the back!)  You'll know the back because there should be more fabric in the back.

9.  Now figure out how wide the wearer of the new pants is.  These pants were for my daughter and her waist is 20".  I didn't have her here to measure so I guessed she was 8" wide, good guess.  Lay the pants out so you can see the front.  In this case, I put my tape measure at the waist so I could evenly measure 4" on each side of the middle seam.  Then I put a pin in each end.  **If you want an all elastic waistband, skip this step.

10.  Now, sew 1/8" from the bottom of the fold to make the elastic casing.  Leave the entire 8" opening in front open.  Measure your elastic and cut it.  I figured that my daughter's waist is 20", subtracted the 8" in front and came up with 12" of elastic.  In order to make the waistband snug, I subtracted a half inch and cut 11.5" of elastic. Using a safety pin, thread the elastic around the pant. Sew the elastic on one end where one of your safety pins was, making sure to secure the elastic in place well.  Then sew the other end of the elastic in place where the other safety pin was, securing it well. **For an all elastic waistband, leave only a 2" opening in the casing, thread elastic through, sew ends of the elastic together and then sew the casing closed.

11.  Finish sewing the casing closed.  There will be no elastic in the front of the pants.  The waist should look like this when you turn the pants right side out.

12.  Hem the bottom of the pants the desired length.  To hem, fold and iron the bottom 1/4" then fold and iron another 1/4" or whatever size desired to make the correct length of pant.  Sew the seem.  You are done!

Pants!

Please give me feedback! 

UPDATE: I'll keep this tutorial on this blog but from now on all my tutorials will be on my creative blog, hatch.

Tutorial: Elastic waist A-line skirt

Thanks for visiting my skirt tutorial. You might also be interested in the simple skirt, the drop waist skirt or the ruffle skirt. If you make one of these please let me know how it turned out! Thanks.

This skirt is simple and should take you about an hour to complete.

Here's what you need:
Fabric of your choice
Cutting mat, rotary cutter & straight edge
thread
3/4 inch elastic: waist measurement plus 1 inch
ribbon or other embellishments are optional

Make your pattern:
First: Top width of pattern
Measure hips (widest part). Add (at least) 1 inch then divide total number by 4.

Example: hips= 25 inches

25 + 1= 26
27 DIV 4 = 6.5 inches

Second: Length of pattern
Measure waist to bottom of skirt, however long you would like. Add 1 inch for bottom hem and 1 1/4 inch for elastic casing at waist.

Example: Finished skirt length = 12 inches

12 + 1 + 1.25 = 14.25 inches

Third: Create pattern
You can do this on a large piece of paper or right on your fabric with a water soluble marker. In this example I did it right on the fabric. You will make 2 identical pieces. Each piece will be cut on the fold. Fold right sides together. Make sure the pattern goes with the nap or grain if there is one. With this example I was able to fold the fabric like this so I used less than half a yard.

Mark dot A (see picture). Use straight edge ruler mark dot B directly horizontal to dot A. Draw line 1 between dot A and B. For our example it is 6.5 inches long.

Mark dot D 14.25 inches below dot A. Draw horizontal line 2 from dot D.

Connect dot B to line 2 with a diagonal line (line 3). The angle of the line is up to you. The greater the angle, the fuller the skirt. The point where this diagonal line connects with the horizontal line you drew is dot C on our example picture.

Cut out on the lines. Create a second piece the same size using the first piece as a guide.

Sew it together
1. Lay pieces on top of each other, right sides together. Sew up each side with a 1/2 inch seem allowance.

2. Finish seems by trimming with pinking sheers. Iron seems open.

3. Make elastic casing by folding down top edge 1/4 inch and iron. Turn 1 inch and iron. Stitch casing closed by sewing close to the edge, leaving plenty of space for the elastic. (sorry this pic is from a different skirt casing!) Leave a 2 inch opening to insert elastic.

4. Cut elastic 1 inch longer than waist measurement. Feed elastic through casing of skirt by pinning a safety pin to one end. Be careful not to lose the other end of the elastic into the casing.

5. Once elastic is fed all the way through the casing, sew elastic together securely.

6. Sew casing closed. Be careful not to sew on elastic.

7. Sew bottom hem by folding bottom 1/2 inch and iron. Fold 1/2 inch again and iron. Sew hem. You're done!