The Train To Crazy

Please welcome Joy from 21 Wale! Joy knows all about sewing for school boys. Thanks for stopping by Joy!

Hi! My name is Joy. I sew and then blog about it. Most of my time is spent raising my 5 kids (2 boys and 3 girls). But sewing clothes is my creative outlet of choice. Somehow folding laundry and returning library books don't satisfy that need to make things. 

Step 1: Make the pattern piece and cut out the fabric, adding seam allowances to each edge.

Step 2: Finish the edges.

Step 3: Press under and stitch the pocket hem at the top.

Step 4: Press all the fold lines.

One set of pressed lines are outlines of the main pocket piece. The other lines will be at the seam allowance edges.

Step 5: Stitch the corners.

Pinch the corner, turn pocket inside out and stitch on the pre-pressed corner line, which is perpendicular to the edge. Before trimming, flip the pocket right side out to check. Repeat for the other corner.Step 6: Press the accordion folds of all 3 edges.

Push the pocket extensions in and press. The fold will be centered.

Step 7: Topstitch.

This is optional, depending on how you want your pocket to look. Do three separate lines of stitching, rather than one long one around the pocket. Otherwise, when you turn the corner, you'll catch the folds of fabric.

Step 8: Pin the pocket on the garment and stitch.

The stitching you're doing here is just like topstitching; I usually start at the top edge of one extension, and go around the pocket, slowing down to neaten the corners.

Probably the trickiest part of the cargo pocket is positioning the pocket extensions so that they are stitched directly under the pocket piece. It's easy for them to slide outward.

Step 9: Optional – Add a flap and velcro, snap, or button.

 Here's a small sampling of cargo pockets. There are so many options!

Thanks Joy! Great tutorial!

Don't forget to add your photos to the Dress Your (School) Boy & Girl Flickr group! We're all looking for inspiration!

Previous Dress Your (School) Boy posts:

I'm excited to introduce our next guest blogger, Emily. You can find her over at The Boy Trifecta where it is all boy all the time. A great place for inspiration if you have boys! And don't forget to stop by and tell her HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!

Hi everyone! My name is Emily, and I blog about boy goodness over at The Boy Trifecta. I'm so excited to be sharing the Oversized Hoodie for Dress Your School Boy week!

I've found that, while there are some great boys patterns, many of the end at size 6 or 7, leaving my extremely tall 9-year-old out of the handmade fun. I also find that sewing for him can get pricey, because his garments require so much fabric! Many hoodie patterns are fully lined, designed to help the home sewist enclose raw fabric edges. This pattern is designed to conserve fabric by lining only the hood, while still being large enough for a big kid. I think this pattern is a comfortable size 12. Also, this is a QUICK project. I can get through this hoodie in less than 90 minutes. Let's get started! Materials: Oversized Hoodie Pattern Pieces 1.75 yards knit fabric .5 yards rib knit Separating zipper (30 inches) Twill tape  (optional) Sewing machine Coordinating thread Zipper foot. *Note: You will notice that I sewed this entire project, except the zipper, on my serger. I did this because my regular machine is in the shop, so I didn't have another option. You can ABSOLUTELY sew this on a regular machine. I would suggest either a stretch stitch or a zig zag stitch for all seams, except the zipper. If you use a knit, you can leave the edges raw.

1. Cut your pattern pieces. I recommend printing all the pages, taping the pages together, and then cutting out the pattern pieces. The hoodie body is one pattern piece for both front and back. I suggest using the pattern piece to cut the hoodie back first, then trim out the neckline from the pattern piece and use the same piece for the front body pieces. Front and back necklines are marked on the pattern piece.

2. Cut your fabric. You should have one back body (use body piece and cut on fold), two front body pieces (use body piece, cut both pieces at once by laying pattern on fabric, wrong sides together), four hood pieces (cut two simultaneously by placing on fabric wrong sides together), and two sleeve pieces (use sleeve pattern pieces, cut on fold). Cut three pieces of rib knit. Two of the should be 9 inches wide by 6 inches tall, and the other should be 32 inches wide by 8 inches tall. Place them in a messy pile on your kitchen table. (I guess that last part is optional). 🙂

3. Sew the shoulder seams, RST. 

4. Sew in the sleeves, RST. 

5. Sew up the side seams. Turn underneath the arm and sew the arm seam.

6. Place hood pieces RST, and sew around curved edge. Repeat with second set of hood pieces.   

7. Place one hood inside the other hood, RST. Stitch around the front edge of the hood. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch the front hood edge. 

8. Pin the hood to the neckline, RST. Start by matching the center hood seam with the center back of the neckline. Then match the front corners, and fit the rest of the hood to the neckline. Stitch in place.   

*Optional: Cover this seam at the back of the neck with twill tape. This is a common finishing method in unlined hoodies. 9. Grab your smaller piece of rib knit. Fold it in half, matching the short ends, and stitch up the side.   

10. Fold your knit tube into a cuff, with the seam on the inside. Place RST on the end of the sleeve. Match the seam on the cuff with the seam on the sleeve. Pin, and sew in place.   

11. Look! You made a cuff! Now go do it again on the other sleeve. 

13. You're almost done! Now grab your zipper. Unfortunately, I don't have photos of this part because I had to sew in the zipper at the machine shop where my machine is being repaired, but don't be scared! It is SO EASY! Just separate the zipper. Lay it face down on the front of the hoodies. Either hand baste it in place, or pin well. Stich it down. The just turn the zip right side up, turning the edge of the zipper tape and raw fabric edge under. Topstitch in place. Repeat with the other side. And you're done!   

Make your kid model their new fall hoodie in 90 degree heat. Riley actually really loves this hoodie, despite the look on his face. Andrea, thanks for having me!

Wow Emily! This is so impressive! Thank you SO much for this generous pattern! I'm sure there will be many boys modeling this in days to come!

Don't forget to join the Flickr group and check out the other Dress Your (School) Boy posts!

Please welcome Katie from Kadiddlehopper! Katie is a very talented seamstress who sews more than I can even fathom having the time to sew! She's quite amazing. Please stop by her blog and say hello! Thanks for being a guest here Katie!

We so often bemoan the lack of boy appropriate fabric. Everything out there is frilly, girly and pink. There are a few boy oriented prints available, but they so often are shoot 'em up cartoons, expensive blue trains and copyrighted by Disney or Pixar. And that is when they aren't intended for the under 2 year old set. How to sew for your school age boy??

But let us not despair. Prints are fun, but for the school age boy particularly, they won't make up the bulk of his wardrobe. What we need for our big boys is hard wearing, rough and tough fabrics that will stand up to whatever they can dish out, but won't make them stand out (in a bad way) on the playground. Here are a few of my favorites.

Denim/Twill 

I am lumping these together because they really are basically the same thing. Twill refers to the way that the fabric is woven. Look down at the jeans you are wearing and you'll see a diagonal texture in the weave.  Denim is a twill woven fabric, generally made of cotton, sometimes blended with polyester or lycra, but there are other twill fabrics out there that are great for boy clothes. Denim is great for jeans, of course but you don't have to stop there! It also makes fun elastic waist shorts and jackets.

Denim Jeans 

Lighter weight denims can be made into study shirts. Overall, denim and twills are a bottom weight fabric, making them perfect for pants, shorts, jackets and backpacks. They are easy to find even at your local big box fabric store, and generally inexpensive, making them a real wardrobe workhorse.

Printed Twill Backpack

Linen (and its cousins) 

Linen is a wonderful, breathable fabric that is a pleasure to sew. The down side of 100% linen is that it can be expensive and is a little bit on the delicate side. Fortunately, there are plenty of linen blends as well as "linen look" fabrics that are more hardy. These actually are even easier to find than their fancy cousins. Most big box fabric stores carry their own line of "linen look" fabrics.

Linen-cotton blend shirt

Lots of them are floral prints, but there are plenty of nice basic solid and stripes perfect for our boys. For my boy, I generally save the real linen for dress pants, but linen looks and blends are great for everyday. They are comfortable to wear and really can be used for almost anything in the wardrobe – shirts, pants, shorts and even lightweight jackets.

Polyester/Linen Look Pants

Knits

I know some of you are a little nervous about sewing with these, but for our tough guys, we don't want the hard to sew knits anyway. We're talking easy to sew cotton interlock and jersey. There are a lot of sources for excellent quality knits, but this is one place where the local JoAnn may not supply your need (although they do have a few reasonable quality basics and a nice selection of ribbing). 

cotton jersey tees

There are several online vendors who consistently deliver quality products, but some experimenting to find out what you like best may be required. My favorites are Chez Ami and the Fabric Fairy.

Thrift store tee shirts are also a fun source of jersey. I like finding a creative way to integrate screen printing into a new garment.

cotton jersey shorts refashioned from garage sale tee

Corduroy

Boys and corduroy just seem to go together. Perfect for fall pants, vests and jackets, it just seems like the quintessential "Boy" fabric. Generally the finer wales are easier to locate as yardage in local stores. I love the look of larger wale cord, especially for boys pants and can sometimes find the wider wales online. For reference the larger the number, the smaller the wale. Generally the corduroy at your local stores is 21 wale. I've seen as large as 8 wale online. Wouldn't that be great for some cool wide leg skater style pants?? My favorite source for nice quality corduroys is actually my hubby's closet. Repurposing old corduroy pants and jackets is a great way to find some fun and interesting fabrics.

corduroy pants refashioned from Dad's

Flannel 

Although great for jammies, flannel is also wonderful for warm layering long sleeve shirts and for lining pants in cold weather. It also makes cozy jacket lining and coat inner lining.

cotton flannel PJs

Fleece

This easy to sew knit fabric is perfect for comfortable unlined jackets and coats. 

It also makes fun hats, gloves and even comfortable pants. It's easy to find, although quality is extremely variable. The polyester fleece that you find at Walmart and the big fabric stores is much more likely to pill and is not as insulating as higher quality fleeces. Look for the Polartec brand, or check that the bolt specifies a "No Pill" fleece and you'll be much happier with your product.

Prints and Patterns

I bemoaned earlier the sad lack of prints for boys, but I actually find that for the school age chap, simpler is better.

cotton shirtings, gingham and a bit of seersucker

Stripes, solids, checks and an occasional houndstooth will clothe your boy well. I would also mention that I have had much better luck getting my son to actually wear what I make when I let him in on the decision making process. Yep, take the boy shopping with you. Let him flip through your pattern magazines. Surf your favorite online fabric stores with him. You might be surprised at how much fun you'll both have!

Thanks Katie! Great information!

Don't forget to add your photos to the Flickr group for Dress Your (School) Boy & Girl!

Check out the previous Dress Your (School) Boy tutorials!

Please welcome Susan from Living With Punks! I love Susan's blog and I'm sure you do too. I'm honored to have Susan kick off the Dress Your (School) Boy week!

I am super excited to be over here at Andrea’s today!  Oh, ya see, I’m so excited I forgot to introduce myself!  I’m Susan from Living with Punks.  I love to create. I love to take pictures.  And, I love to write…therefore, I blog!  When Andrea asked me to be a part of her Dress your (School) Boy Week, I immediately said YES!  My twin boys are almost 9 and it is getting harder and harder to sew for them…and have them actually like it!  So, I have to get creative and really keep my eye out for what’s ‘in’.  I know!  That means thumbing through the latest cool children’s clothing catalogs and DIY’ing what I can…

 I’ve seen these emblem polo’s everywhere and thought why not personalize them for the punks… and guess what?  They love them!  Don’t let the faces in the pictures fool ya…those are just their serious model faces they put on as soon as the lens goes to my eye. ;)  I’m serious…I think they missed their calling… Let’s get started

Plain polo shirt

Thrifted T-Shirt or scraps

fusible interfacing

Coordinating thread   Begin by cutting a sufficient amount of fabric for each element, one circle and one letter.  Fuse the wrong side of the fabric to the raised side of the interfacing Use a household item (I used my pin cushion) to draw a nice circle. For the letter I just freehanded on the backside of the interfaced fabric.  Just remember to draw in reverse! Clip about a 1/4” cut around the entire circle every 1/2” or so.  This will give the emblem a rugged look once washed Arrange your letter on the emblem and pin in place.   Stitch in a contrasting thread.  Don’t worry about being perfect…the more rugged, the better, right? Place your emblem on the left side of the shirt and stitch in place.  I loaded my bobbin and needle thread in different colors and played around with the tension so you could see both colors when sewn.  Sew this first circle pretty straight and don’t let the stitches go over any of the small cuts previously made on the circle Your second pass around the circle, you can get all wonky to make it deliberately crooked.

Now my boys have are that much more prepared for starting school!  Yay!  I think I’ll do some with numbers now!