DY(S)B: Guest Tutorial- Cargo Pocket

Please welcome Joy from 21 Wale! Joy knows all about sewing for school boys. Thanks for stopping by Joy!

Hi! My name is Joy. I sew and then blog about it. Most of my time is spent raising my 5 kids (2 boys and 3 girls). But sewing clothes is my creative outlet of choice. Somehow folding laundry and returning library books don't satisfy that need to make things.

My blog catalogs my personal challenge to make all of my own clothes and most of my kids'. But really, my kids grow too fast for me to keep up with them!

My boys are 9 and 10 now. They've had mom-made clothes for several years and still express exuberant appreciation for them, but now they are much more involved in the process. They help pick fabric, patterns, and details. And now that they're older, their opinions are much more realistic than they used to be!

One of my favorite things about sewing for boys is the DETAILS. With girls' clothes, fabric is often the highlight. But with the more subdued fabrics we tend to use for older boys, the fun details are key.

And what detail is both interesting and useful? The pocket, of course! I thought I'd show you one method to assemble the classic cargo pocket.

Cargo Pocket Tutorial

Step 1: Make the pattern piece and cut out the fabric, adding seam allowances to each edge.

If you want to convert a patch pocket (in other words, a square) into a cargo pocket, just add extensions. My extensions are equal to my seam allowance of 5/8". In the photo you can see that I have added a seam allowance in addition to my pocket extensions.

It's easy to do a shaped or rounded pocket, too. Just cut a long strip (plus seam allowance on both long edges) for an extension and sew it around the edge of the pocket.

Step 2: Finish the edges.

This is optional. I suppose it's highly unlikely the pocket edges will fray to pieces sooner than the knees wear out. But you never know!

Step 3: Press under and stitch the pocket hem at the top.

Step 4: Press all the fold lines.

One set of pressed lines are outlines of the main pocket piece. The other lines will be at the seam allowance edges.

Step 5: Stitch the corners.

Pinch the corner, turn pocket inside out and stitch on the pre-pressed corner line, which is perpendicular to the edge. Before trimming, flip the pocket right side out to check. Repeat for the other corner.

Step 6: Press the accordion folds of all 3 edges.

Push the pocket extensions in and press. The fold will be centered.

Step 7: Topstitch.

This is optional, depending on how you want your pocket to look. Do three separate lines of stitching, rather than one long one around the pocket. Otherwise, when you turn the corner, you'll catch the folds of fabric.

Step 8: Pin the pocket on the garment and stitch.

The stitching you're doing here is just like topstitching; I usually start at the top edge of one extension, and go around the pocket, slowing down to neaten the corners.

Probably the trickiest part of the cargo pocket is positioning the pocket extensions so that they are stitched directly under the pocket piece. It's easy for them to slide outward.